how to change seals on 770 loader cylinders

[bunt]

Last week I was doing some trail making and seen one of the bucket cylinders leaking oil at the cylinder of the bucket tilt cylinder. Do not know much about how to change these seals, noticed that you could turn or is it tighten cylinder as there is a flat spot for a 18 inch pipe wrench to fit and rotate, what is this for and how do you change the seals and if so what are the numbers.
Bill

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Hello Bill,

I will try to help you as best as I can, but you need to help me first. I need good quality pics of your cylinder. There are many different styles of retaining the gland to the cylinder housing. I need a good pic to give you accurate instructions. Then, you need to go to the dealer and get part#, price, and availability of seal kits. With a part # I can cross it over to an aftermarket kit. But, if the dealer price is reasonable, get the kits from them. Personally, whenever I order seals, I always order extra. You may need them in the future and even the pros do damage them while installing them. Another thing to check, your local hydraulic shop. I price my rebuilds so that most people won't even bother doing it themselves. Another thing, extend the rods out all the way. Grab the rod at the end with your thumb and index finger using the webbing of your thumb. This is probably the most sensitive part of your hand. While doing the thousand yard stare into space, run your hand down the rod towards the cylinder housing feeling for any rod imperfections. Small indents are okay, anything protruding will tear up a new seal before you get the air out of the cylinder.
Good luck, Andy

BTW, how's the pickerel fishing up there? I would consider a house call for some good fishing

 

[bunt]

thanks for the in put, I am trying to borrow a digital camera and I have also started looking for hydrolic shops in my area. I will let you know how it works out, another option is there is a Princes Auto store within a 100 miles so I may look at their power fist cylinders or kits for the future, I can not make my own hoses up for the price they charge for generic length hoses
Yes I live right in the centre of pickeral country, and because I like the bush so much I had to buy a camp 150 miles north in the center of the speck, splake and pickeral areas, yes fishing is good.
Bill

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Yes I live right in the centre of pickeral country, and because I like the bush so much I had to buy a camp 150 miles north in the center of the speck, splake and pickeral areas, yes fishing is good.
Bill

Bill,

You're killing me. Because of things going on, I've been fishing twice this year and one of those times, my new rod broke in half. Defective junk, and it wasn't even daylight yet.
Another good thing for you to do is to get a parts breakdown.
Andy.

 

[bunt]

efound a series # on the 770 ford loader, it is on a Ford 1700, it is WL-2555-6, which is sort of unique as that is my first two initials and the name I use for a business, WLB Resources. Anyways sorry to hear that you are not getting out fishing, I broke or wore out 2 ugly sticks, this year, but they were close to 25 years old, just started to learn how to fly fish, found one lake caught 52 pike in about three hours, but lake must be dying as heads were large and bodies small, I weighted one that was 38 inches and it only weighed three pounds, anyways back to putting plugs on line of hydrolics not fishing rod as going to try and find out how to take apart and try and match seals, shafts seem to be good crome, anyways thanks again
Bill

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Hello Bill,

Yeah, that's a light fish for that long, maybe no baitfish left?
Anyway, I attached some pics of different style glands and how they are retained. There are screw in, wire lock, snap-ring, etc. Anything look like yours?
Andy

 

[bunt]

none of the above, the bottom end is larger than rest of cylinder and is about 5 to 6 inches long, it has two flats that a large 18" cresent might fight over to hold, this part is near the bucket and turns like this is where it comes apart, got some three eight pipe plugs yesterday and a couple of caps and will take a part today, that is remove bucket from tractor anyways, not that fast moving.
Chumly, you can reach me at billbunt@vianet.ca

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

good thread, pics always help.....

what if your shafts are scraped up fairly deep in some spots.......i priced them from the factory and really don't want to give that kind of $$$.....being that there are after-market seals, i would assume there are after-market shafts????

sorry for the highjack

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Bill,

I'm definately going to need pictures in order to help you.
Andy

 

[RickB]

That cylinder should have a threaded gland. It uses U-cups for both the piston and gland seals. It is necessary to remove the elbow from the base end port and insert as large a drift punch as will fit into the port AND a drilling in the side of the round piston nut. Once the nut is trapped, the rod is rotated, loosening the piston and relieving compression on the U-cup piston seals. It may not be absolutely necessary to loosen the piston to get the rod out of the bore, but the piston MUST be installed loose and tightened in place at reassembly. And loosening the piston as described is a good way to free it without damage to the O.D.

Edit: After re-reading the original post, you should try tightening the gland. A little more pressure on the gland U-cup stack may stop the leak. It's certainly worth a try.