How to grade properly?

   / How to grade properly? #1  

Mfaughn

New member
Joined
Oct 25, 2007
Messages
6
Hi all,

Well, I just bought a tractor (Yanmar 2210D, FEL, 4'box, 6' scrape, ag tires). I am well aware that I can use this wonderful tool to make a real mess of things. I'd rather try and do things closer to right the first time.

My main uses at this point are going to be rearranging the contours of my yard and for gravel road maintenance. I am wondering if there is a good book on using a compact tractor for these tasks or a good primer on the internet.

More info on my specific projects. I have ~2 acres. about 1/2 of it is on steep ground that I probably won't be driving the tractor around on (25+ degree slope) -- not before the other stuff is done anyway. My house is on about a 10 degree slope. I've got about 1/2 acre of turf, maybe a bit more. My first projects will be yard flattening -- small area prepped for hot tub placement and a larger about 1500-2000sqft mostly flattened for kid play area. Questions include:

1) Best way to compact the soil with my tractor? I'm worried about tires just making a mess of things while I'm trying to make everything packed and flat.

2) I plan to move earth from the high side to the low side to make a flat area. How do I handle/work/transition to the toe of the slope on the filled low side and on the cut side above the graded area?

3) Best way to shape the graded area in terms of drainage?

4) Best practices for grading a gravel road?

5) etc., etc...


Thanks y'all,

Michael
 
   / How to grade properly? #2  
Michael,

Practice. Practice, Practice...

By 4' box I assume you mean box blade. I would have installed industrial tires. AG will tear everything apart. Also, a 6' box blade would be better... gets you beyond your tire width.

I did a round pen with a 2.5' slope difference - side to side. I tried the blade to dig into slope as I went in circles - it didn't work. In the end I used my FEL and dug into slope until I got it almost level. I then used the box blade with teeth to level it out. I used some of the earth to level the other side. I used the back blade angled with down pressure to smooth everything out. I then used a landscape rack to clean up the odd rock and sod etc.

I would build a french drain around level area. I would also terrace your level area and back file (into hill) some drainage rock. You need to redirect the water from hill and landscape it with rock or wood to finish it.

I just finished a 1800' driveway with about 20 yards of gravel. I used the FEL to move the gravel and the box blade to level it. I dumped the FEL as I backed up to get it evenly spread and finished with the box blade. I also did one final pass on the each side with the box blade tilted to create a crown in the road.

Hope this helps.

Lloyd'
 
   / How to grade properly? #3  
a few quick items to help you out.

1. remove the top soil and pull it off to the side from both the top side and the bottom side. then move the clay from the top down to the bottom. Use scarfing teeth to tear up the dirt/soil to help move it. go around tearing it up a bunch then raise rippers up and pull top soil off. then lower rippers and tear up clay/sub-soil, raise the rippers up and move it down & repeat, moving as much as the yanmar can move. use the tilt action of the top link to force the box blade to dig in. once you fill it up drag it down & raise & unload the box blade as you're moving leveling it slightly as you go. if you get ripples don't worry, just raise up the box blade and back up slowly lowering it to trim off the tops of the ripples. you will have to go in steps, start and move the top of the hill down as far as you can, progress is slow not just a 1 weekend job usually. I built a set of 3 hills, berms & water wash control around my place. probably 50 hrs of run time easy into those the same way with a 28hp 4x4 tractor using 6' box blade & fel. often when I was moving a long way I would fill FEL and BOX and move it all way dump fel while raising box to level.

here is some of the stuff I did
WPSPIKER/BARN photos - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

much of mine was removing top soil and sub soil for barn base. the later pics shows some more extensive soil movement, that was cutting down ~2~3' in one area down to level or so 80' by 150' LOTS of dirt moving... the barn is 50 by 50 I cut a swath close by it moving dirt out into 2 berm/swells progressively out farther uphill. the farthest swell is ~12' wide 3' high in middle and over 400' long. it is seen starting part in first few pics.

mark
 
   / How to grade properly? #4  
I like the 5' box blade on my 4' wide tractor.
Michael:
Watch out cause I'm sure 3rrl is going to jump in here with his wonder blade.
Look at his threads for tricks and uses.
It would get reeally expensive to buy what he has built.
Hydraulic Top-n-Tilt, and hydraulic rippers. He really wants the seat time, no climbing out and hand twisting the manual links the rest of us have....
Ian
 
   / How to grade properly? #5  
1) Best way to compact the soil with my tractor? I'm worried about tires just making a mess of things while I'm trying to make everything packed and flat.

All you can with the tractor itself is keep driving over it till it reaches optimum density for the weight applied. The top surface may look rough but that you blade off.

2) I plan to move earth from the high side to the low side to make a flat area. How do I handle/work/transition to the toe of the slope on the filled low side and on the cut side above the graded area?

As stated, use the bucket. Use the box blade teeth to rip the areas being excavated first.

3) Best way to shape the graded area in terms of drainage?

Put in some grade stakes and work to them

4) Best practices for grading a gravel road?

Rip it with the box blade teeth first to get it all loosened up. Then use a back blade with gage wheels to roll a windrow of material back and forth. This will help distribute material evenly. Finally lay down the windrow making sure there is crown on the road.

5) etc., etc...
 
   / How to grade properly? #6  
Attached is a plan for a home made cultipacker. Use that to pack down the work. Final grade can be done easier with a WIDE implement. Even a home made one.



That is dual 12' long I beams. Works pretty slick. Would work better with more weight, but it did a good job.
 
Last edited:
   / How to grade properly?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Hi all,

Thanks for the advice, tips, etc.. They are a real help. More than anything, it is a great confidence builder to know that you great folks are out there helping to answer my questions.

I'm still kinda wondering how much slope to leave in my flattened out kid play area. I am imagining a very slight crown and downward slope to avoid low spots that could hold puddles. Am I thinking right? If so, how much slope? Would 1% be alright?

-Michael
 

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