How to know when to change front tires on 4WD tractor?

[TORQUIN]

My front R4's seem to be pretty worn, they have about 6/32 of tread from new, which I believe is 19/32. The rears seem to have the entire 1" of tread they came with new. I figure the front wear is from turning and the heavy loads I carry with the FEL. I do notice that it is harder to disengage 4WD. I usually have to back up a ways to disengage easily. I haven't noticed much traction difference yet, as usually I'm in 2wd until I get stuck and after engaging 4wd I'm moving again.
I searched but have not seen this type of discussion here.
Front: Titan 10-16.5 R4
Rear: Titan 17L-24 R4
Does it make sense to change the fronts now, or can I wait?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[CADplans]

Traction is the ONLY reason to change a worn tire,,
I am good with worn front tires,,,

As far as the disengage 4WD,, you can find the original rolling radius,, then,,
simply inflate your worn tires to cause them to be that rolling radius.

A little extra air is WAY cheaper than buying a set of tires,,, :thumbsup:

 

[TORQUIN]

Thanks for the advice on airing them up. I did so and it is easier to get it out of 4WD.
I have not calculated rolling radius because I have not found how to do it yet. I saw it someplace on here but have not found again yet.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[ovrszd]

Rolling radius, or rolling circumference index (rci) is calculated with a given air pressure. You aren't going to find a valued chart telling you how much air to add as tread is worn off.

Replace your front tires when they no longer serve you.

 

[jeff9366]

My front R4's seem to be pretty worn, they have about 6/32 of tread from new, which I believe is 19/32.
Does it make sense to change the fronts now, or can I wait?

R4 tires are six-ply in thickness, sometimes more than six-ply. A strong carcass.

Wait until you begin to lose traction.

 

[FTG-05]

Pics? I might be in the same boat.

 

[PILOON]

You probably already know it but fronts are always 5% oversized to compensate for wear hence they do wear faster as well as being smaller.
When they approach baldness they probably are even with rears as to traction or contact.

Loss of traction will be your answer, that or when cords start showing.

 

[repete]

Good observation on the shifting out of 4wd being related to the tire radius. Make sure your fronts are inflated to the max amount especially if you carry a load in the bucket in 4wd and when you do not need 4wd, shift it out.

That difficulty of shifting is due to tension within the drivetrain. Unequal rotational speeds. Eventually this stress will take a toll on something, most likely the front tires (cheaper than metal parts) causing an even faster tread wear as they somewhat "skid" to make up the difference.

Use 4wd when you have to. Do not use it when you don't. Knowing when is the hard part. I have hills and when I come down them with a load in the bucket I better have shifted into 4wd BEFORE I realize my back wheels are skidding....

 

[calpalmer]

My old L2550 with R1 tires has plenty of traction with existing tread, but the rubber is highly checked. Is checking not a concern here, too?

 

[CalG]

I always replace traction tires right after I write the check to the recovery truck driver that got me out of the mire I couldn't get out of on my own.

It seems to work out to just about twice what the tires (and chains) alone would have cost me. ;-)