How to lubricate Jinma chippe? Help.

[Redneck in training]

I bought Jinma chipper and wanted to lubricate the bearings. Before I did that I removed the zerks and looked inside the hole. There isn't a port in the bearing itself that would allow grease to go inside. Do I need to take it apart and turn the bearing in "holder" to align the port with the zerk.

 

[RoyJackson]

I suggest you put the zerk fitting back in and pump some grease in there, unless your manual descibes how to remove the bearing and repack it.
You could call the dealer you bought the chipper from, but I expect he'll tell you the same thing I just wrote.

 

[Redneck in training]

I suggest you put the zerk fitting back in and pump some grease in there, unless your manual descibes how to remove the bearing and repack it.
You could call the dealer you bought the chipper from, but I expect he'll tell you the same thing I just wrote.

My question is how the grease gets to the bearing inside. I am thinking that the threaded zerk hole in the pillow block should be aligned with a hole in the outer ring of the ball bearing. Otherwise there is on way any grease gets inside. I will remove on of them and take it appart to see how it is designed.

 

[Kays Supply]

Some housings have a groove around the inside. That way the grease can follow it until it hits the hole in the bearing.

 

[JohninCT]

Why take the bearing apart just because? If it has a zerk fitting, then it must have some provision for getting the grease into the bearing (i.e. a groove in the block and a hole in the outer race). I'd pump some grease an see what happens - lot easier

 

[Redneck in training]

Why take the bearing apart just because? If it has a zerk fitting, then it must have some provision for getting the grease into the bearing (i.e. a groove in the block and a hole in the outer race). I'd pump some grease an see what happens - lot easier

Thanks for the advice. You are right. I pumped some grease in it and run it for about 5 minutes. All looks and sounds OK. If it stops raining I will chipp today.

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

I pumped some grease in it and run it for about 5 minutes. All looks and sounds OK. If it stops raining I will chipp today.

We offer service , parts and sales for most all the China MFD chippers here in the USA. I have not ever received (yet) a new chipper or new replacement bearing that has had grease in it.
It's very hard to use our USA grease gun on those factory China grease fittings and get any grease in the bearing. We service and prep all of our chippers prior to sell. We have a air powered grease gun we use in the shop and it takes several pumps to fill the pillow block bearings. I recommend you keep pumping till is squirts out on all the bearings.



Congrad on your new chipper.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[Redneck in training]

We offer service , parts and sales for most all the China MFD chippers here in the USA. I have not ever received (yet) a new chipper or new replacement bearing that has had grease in it.
It's very hard to use our USA grease gun on those factory China grease fittings and get any grease in the bearing. We service and prep all of our chippers prior to sell. We have a air powered grease gun we use in the shop and it takes several pumps to fill the pillow block bearings. I recommend you keep pumping till is squirts out on all the bearings.



Congrad on your new chipper.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

Thanks for your reply. I also have air powered grease pump. I pumped in enough grerase that it came out between the bearing outer ring and the pillow block. I chipped about 6 hours today and made about two cubic yards of chips. So far all worked well. I will add some grease before next chipping.
I will post my experience in another post.

 

[cycle_gator]

Redneck in Training:

I have one of those Jinma Chippers. There are a couple of really good websites on how to prep them before use. A brief outline:
1.)Tighten everything
2.)Have a spare belt for the gearcase that drives the input drum, you will need it in 10 to 20 hours.:thumbsup:
3.) Replace lube in gearcase with any good 90 W gear oil.
4.) Grease the heck out of it every ten hours. I went an extra step to make it easier to grease and installed a remote greasing system for all four of the main pillow bearings. The zerks sit in a manifold on the front pulley cover. If I was home I would shoot a picture. This makes greasing them really easy. I also put a remote zerk on the inside bearing of the feed drum.
5.) The weakest part of these things is the drive line for the feed drum. There are two styles; a U-joint style which is newer, better and improved, and the older ball joint style. The only thing that holds the drive shaft to the squared ends of the ball joints is the spring tension. Sometimes this is not enough and the shaft or ball joint socket will get rounded off in the connection between shaft and ball joint. Many people have drilled and tapped the ball joint sockets and installed set screws to prevent this. The "many" includes me.
6.) One thing I have not done, but will, is to sharpen the the "teeth" in the drive drum. This is really helpful if you are chipping dry wood. Green works fine, but I am here to tell you dry Ponderosa Pine is another matter.:drool:

One last thing, after getting smacked in the face a couple times with flying chips, I invested in a face mask/hearing protection combination and now wear it religiously. I attached a picture of me feeding the chipper.

 

[Redneck in training]

I chipped about 6 hours yesterday. It worked fine with few exceptions. The feed drum belt slipped off one time. Apparently a piece wood got between the pulley and the belt. One time the feed drum turned sideway and locked the universal joint causing the belt smoking before I was able to shut the PTO off because the safety release of the feed didn't work.
Otherwise I am quite happy how it worked. I chipped some semi green stuff and few really dry logs of "hedge" tree. When hedge is dry there is no way to pound a nail in it but the chipper ate it with ease.
I made about two cubic yards of chips.