How to refill transmissions and differentials.

[RalphVa]

This is not strictly a tractor question.

I had the trans and diff oil changed in my pickup after 12 years and 150k miles. Now, the transmissions seems stiffer to shift. One of my bowling buddies says he gets better mileage in his motor home after changing to Amsoil synthetic in its trans and diff.

My big problem in the home garage is how to get the new stuff in there. In the old days when I was younger, I'd change them out and use an oil squirt gun (nozzle removed) to put the new oil into them. Required quite a few refills of the squirt can, but I was young and could wiggle back and forth underneath to do this.

How do some of you do it?

Ralph

 

[thatguy]

On my Ram 2500 - I elected to remove the diff covers when I changed it over to Amsoil.. I first place a drain pan under the diff and started removing the bottom bolts.. them i started loosening the upper bolts, but did not remove them.. I expected the cover to come off easily, but I ended up having to knock them off because the mfg used RTV on them and it wouldnt release easily..

I cleaned the covers, used new gaskets and reinstalled the covers.. then i used a long funnel and poured the stuff out of quart bottles.. I would probably use some sort of pump next time to make it easier to fill..

the tranny is much more difficult if it does not have a drain plug.. IF it does have a drain plug - drain, catch and measure the fluid coming out and refill with the same amount.. I have an excel spreadsheet someone created that shows you the percentage you get with each drain and refill.. You can plan on around 6 to 8 drain and refills to get to 75ish% new fluid

If it does not have a drain plug you will either need to drop the tranny pan (not a fun thing to do from what I read) or you can suck it out by the filler hole.. Again catch, measure the old and refill the same amount.. I am going to install a B&M drain valve on my tranny cover when i get it off so i dont need to drop the pan later on.

You can also remove some transmission line, start the engine and the pump will force the fluid out, then stop the engine.. Catch, measure and refill... Lather, rinse and repeat..

Im sure dozens of ppl have responed by the time i typed all of this out.. but i hope it helps

Brian

 

[QRTRHRS]

This is not strictly a tractor question.

I had the trans and diff oil changed in my pickup after 12 years and 150k miles. Now, the transmissions seems stiffer to shift. One of my bowling buddies says he gets better mileage in his motor home after changing to Amsoil synthetic in its trans and diff.

My big problem in the home garage is how to get the new stuff in there. In the old days when I was younger, I'd change them out and use an oil squirt gun (nozzle removed) to put the new oil into them. Required quite a few refills of the squirt can, but I was young and could wiggle back and forth underneath to do this.

How do some of you do it?

Ralph

I am going to assume by your post that you have a manual trannsmission? If so, you can purchase these plastic screw on oil fillers with about a foot of clear plastic tubing from AutoZone and others. The screw on fitting is actually a valve so you have can insert the tube into the fill hole then release the fluid.

For the rear, you should have adequate room to do one quart at a time. For the trans, I replace the short tube with a longer length to reach the engine bay. Once my first quart is in, I cut the bottom off and now have a funnel into which I pour each addition quart.

 

[WH401]

I changed the front and rear fluid out of the diffs on my 06' Ram 3500 after 15k, just to get the breaki-n metal shavings out. The rear was pretty simple, loosen and remove all the bolts except 1 or 2 top ones so the fluid drains out. Then after the fluid drains, remove the cover and clean it out, clean the reusable gasket. Put the gasket back on and replace cover, install and retighten all the bolts, but you have to be careful not to snap them on the 03 and up models, there made of a soft metal and actually snap before you even get to the recommended torque specs. I just snugged them and they have been fine for 10k. Then just refill the diff, there was plenty of room in the back anyway and also since I ran the back up on 2 2x4's on each side.

The front was more complicated as the steering components get in the way, you have to jack the frame up with jack stands so the suspension will articulate down. Then basically the same procedure, just when I refilled this time I use a clear peice of some x/x" hose to get the oil in the diff. I replaced the factory stuff with Royal Purple as it was easier to get at that moment than Amsoil. Next time I change it I'll go with Amsoil.

 

[LRH]

This is not strictly a tractor question.

I had the trans and diff oil changed in my pickup after 12 years and 150k miles. Now, the transmissions seems stiffer to shift.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Verify correct fluid was used--------------------
Does it seem stiffer due to what seems a heavier viscosity?; or is it the syncro's lagging behind due to the level of friction modifiers in the fluid?

 

[number two]

Sounds like a heavier viscosity lube was used,should become easier to shift when warmed up after driving a few miles.Any synthetic gear lube would be a definite improvement,and cost-effective as well considering the cost of fuel and the extended drain interval with a synthetic lube.Using the quart plastic squeeze bottles with whatever hose length required to fill it works for me.If no drain plug,think about a cheap suction gun <$10.Most truck manual transmissions will have a drain plug. Good luck!

 

[DieselPower]

You would be supprised how much just a additive package can change shift characteristics. Base stock is only one part of a lubricant.

 

[Bedlam]

I have used a pump oil can a few times. Luckily mine has a large capacity. I make sure to remove the tip that restricts it down. Fill it and stick it in the hole and pump away (helps to have warm or heated oil).For me it is by far the cleanest way to do it. I assume you could add a stub of hose to the end if needed.
But either way it is and easy effort to pump it in till it dribbles out the filler.
Sure beats how I did it in the 70's/ Used to cut a hole in the floor board to get a funnel into it. LOL But then the floorboards were usually rotted out then anyways.

 

[wushaw]

For differentials I use a Liquivac to remove fluid, I have used this method on my Jeep for 126k and have no differential problems.LiquiVac Oil Extractor &#151; 2 Gallon | Oil Extractors | Northern Tool + Equipment

I use a tube if necessary on the end of bottle. There are pumps that can be screwed onto qt bottles that work well also

 

[Butters]

I second the Liquivac. It is a very handy little device. I use it on all my small engines, tractors and bobcat as well. Much easier and cleaner than draining.
I only wish the tube would go down the dipstick tube of my Chevy 5.3 and 6.0 liter engines. there is a bend or something that stops it.

For differentials I use a Liquivac to remove fluid, I have used this method on my Jeep for 126k and have no differential problems.LiquiVac Oil Extractor 2 Gallon | Oil Extractors | Northern Tool + Equipment

I use a tube if necessary on the end of bottle. There are pumps that can be screwed onto qt bottles that work well also