How to remove pin

[Morning Wood]

I’m borrowing a yanmar cbl 40 from a friend. The deal is I grease and change oil. I was not able to get the thumb cylinder at thumb to take grease. Fitting is ok. I did everything I could do. Next step is to remove the pin. Before I start bashing on things I’m wondering if the pin has caps or something on it. The retaining bolt comes out fine, but the ends of the pin have little threaded holes. Are those caps that need to come off to access the pin or is it the pin itself?
Thanks,
Nick.

 

[Morning Wood]

I will add that the cylinder does move around on the pin, so I’m assuming the pin is rusted up on the sides to the thumb.

 

[Mulder]

Looks like you need to remove the bolt in the last picture and it should come out with some persuasive hammering

 

[4570Man]

I usually try removing the grease fitting and drilling the old grease out behind it before I remove the pin. Also put the grease fitting on the grease gun while it’s removed and see if it flows through easily. I’ve seen them get stopped up.

 

[DJ54]

Might try cleaning out as much old grease as you can, then make a half damn on the hole with grease. Spray penetrant in the hole, replace zerk and try and pump grease. You'll get some resistance, but hold pressure on it. Once the liquid starts through, grease will follow. A decent gun will produce 12K psi, so should push the liquid through. I've had a 99% success rate using this method.

That is, unless the bushing has spun away from the hole.

 

[Morning Wood]

Fitting flows. I took it off and sprayed penetrating fluid in there with compressed air. Nothing. I’ll try scraping out the hole. Kinda crappy access.

 

[WranglerX]

Once keeper bolt is out nothing should be keeping pin from moving but rust.... Did you try running a small drill bit (under size- by hand) down pin to clear any old grease out of passage?

 

[rScotty]

I will add that the cylinder does move around on the pin, so I’m assuming the pin is rusted up on the sides to the thumb.

A Yanmar CBL 40 ? Now there is a rare bird. And reputed to be as good as they are rare. Supposedly they were strong and simple construction quality.
Yanmar made them for a long time, wonder if they still make them and where would a person find a new one? I tried to find a new one back when we were looking at TLBs & bought the Kubota.

That pin might not come out easily. I've had some luck on similar pins with an old heavy two-jaw puller with long enough legs. The center of the puller will sometimes push on pins enough to get them to move. It usually requires torch heat + hammering, too. The counter sunk hole helps locate the puller center bolt

I wonder why that hole is threaded?? Could it be that a zerk could be threaded in there to some advantage?

Have you tried one of those hammer impact oil&grease injectors? I got one from Amazon recently - a $50 Lincoln 5805 that says use light oil instead of grease - but have not tried it yet & have no idea if it will work.
Maybe that pin just has to stay there....After all, you say that the cylinder does turn on the pin, so maybe a hammer impact grease gun like the Lincoln will lube the center and you can just leave the pin stuck.

BTW, here is an old adv. for the CBL 40. From about 2008.
rScotty

 

[dfkrug]

Yeah, the CBL40 was amazing when it came out. A JD110 competitor, IMO.

Turbocharged version of the venerable Yanmar 3-cylinder 1.5-liter diesel, similar to those NA 3-cyls I had in my old JD4300 tractors.

They made it for less than 10 years, I estimate, possibly longer for non-US markets. Photo is from World Ag Expo 10 or 15 years ago.

 

[Morning Wood]

It’s really a sweet little machine. Very solid. My ford 1720 is a joke compared to it. This one only has about 475 hours on it. I was able to get the fitting to take grease and I’m not going to bother with trying to get the pin out. We can cross that bridge when we need to. Thanks for all the suggestions. I went back in and cleaned out the hole better with the grease fitting removed. That did the trick.