How to use differential lock?

[MrSteve]

Hello... I was playing, um I mean "working" around with my box blade to see some of the things I could do with it the other day when I needed to use the differential lock because of one wheel spin, but half the time I couldn't get the thing to lock. Now I know you all weren't here, but what am I doing wrong? I know it works because when it goes in it, it is smooth as can be, no noise, no kick, just slides in and both wheels are locked. I have tried rocking the tractor to get the differential moved somewhat for it to lock, sometimes that works and sometimes it doesn't. It just seems I have to be doing something wrong, it just shouldn't be this hard to find the "lock spot", right? Now the way I understand it (but I have been wrong 99% of the time, per the wife) you should NOT lock the rear when the tractor is moving, is this correct? Is there any pointers you can give me to try the next time I need the lock? Thanks

 

[JerryG]

Steve,
From a dead stop, push down on the pedal, keep pressure on the pedal as you slowly start the tractor rolling. You should feel it go in within a few inches to a foot of travel.

 

[MrSteve]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( Steve,
From a dead stop, push down on the pedal, keep pressure on the pedal as you slowly start the tractor rolling. You should feel it go in within a few inches to a foot of travel. )</font>

Ok... So it is ok to move the tractor a "little" to get it to lock? I was thinking that was the way to do it (to get the gears to set up), but if I remember right the book says "not" to move the tractor when pressing the pedal.

 

[JerryG]

The gears are square cut. If the pawl gear is on top of the other gear, they can't go together without one of them moving at least a little. It is all right to move the tractor while engaging, but it needs to be done slowly.

 

[beenthere]

I suspect the book says to not engage the lock when one wheel is spinning, which can cause grinding at first or sudden engagement of the locking pins (or gears) and stress on the whole rear end when the non-spinning wheel is suddenly engaged.
But moving into the lock position while the wheel or wheels are moving slowly is how I engage mine.
Sounds like yours is working okay.

 

[Nasty135]

Steve, This is how I have done it as well, Low RPM While holding it down with my right heel it will kick in, or by releasing the clutch in gear and like the others have stated it will kick in ,you will feel it engaging as your heel sinks a hair more and the resistance to the pedal is gone. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[loulblades]

I don't know how the diff. lock could be engaged without moving unless it just happened to be lined up.

I only engage the diff. lock if the rear wheels start spinning at which point I let up on the peddle, hold down on the diff. lock, then slowly push on the peddle until the diff. lock engages once all is aligned. Seems to work OK.

 

[MrSteve]

Thanks everyone for the replies... Next time I have a one wheel spin I'll give it a try. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong "before" I did as you all are saying.

 

[artman67]

I had that same question and concern about locking the differential. Personally, I wish that the manual would be geared a little more toward 'rookie' tractor owners like myself. And I'm saying this as someone who lives by the notion that the manual should not be read until something is broken



Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Regal]

If you can turn right or left just a little as you move, some times that will let it lock in the same way it would if one wheel spun. Also you might notice that if you have the diff locked and try to turn, it will bind. If this happens, you can simply turn the oposite direction or even back up to get it to pop out. Just don't try to engage diff locks when one wheel is turning a lot faster than the other one.