How would you do it?

[Danger18]

Tie rod broke off while backing up a steep slope with the hog attached. How can I get the casting off the ball joint without tearing up the rubber boot? Heat? Fork? Trying to avoid taking the one side apart in order to put it in a vice and pound it out.

 

[teg]

Manufacturer's Warranty??? Is it really only two years old?

 

[Clint S]

There are a variety of tie rod separating tools that would work on that. Just do a Google search.
Powerbuilt Small Tie Rod Puller-648692 - The Home Depot

 

[Danger18]

I was pushing the limits and one tire got caught in a rut and the other jammed up on a log. Broke that off on the left side and the right cylinder pivot on the other. Parts arrived in four days. Easy fix would have been to order the tie rod end assembly, but I didn't want to mess with the adjustment. So much easier than working on a car or truck. I wouldn't think to do a warranty claim since it was operator abuse. I'm happy nothing serious broke, and the parts were cheap to boot.

 

[kthompson]

A pulley puller. Two or three jaw set.

 

[aczlan]

There are a variety of tie rod separating tools that would work on that. Just do a Google search.
Powerbuilt Small Tie Rod Puller-648692 - The Home Depot

This is what I would use. It's pretty commonly available from various manufacturers.

Aaron Z

 

[Gator6x4]

A pulley puller. Two or three jaw set.

Very good. That will do exactly what he wants, save the rubber boot and remove the broken piece. :thumbsup:

 

[jimmysisson]

Before setting the puller, hold the head of a 3# hammer against one rounded side of the broken piece and hit the other rounded side 2-3 times w medium force. That will jar the taper a bit making it easier to pull. Doesn't touch the boot.
Jim

 

[bier1064]

Before setting the puller, hold the head of a 3# hammer against one rounded side of the broken piece and hit the other rounded side 2-3 times w medium force. That will jar the taper a bit making it easier to pull. Doesn't touch the boot.
Jim

I have had them come apart using the hammer method without even using a puller or fork (an old trick I learned years ago while working in a wrecking yard).

 

[Stimw]

X-3 on using a backup hammer on one side and hit the other side 180*.
I have never used a pickle fork to get these apart, just the 2 hammer method on tie rods, ball joints and Pittman arms.
Use a 3 lb sledge hammer for back up and get solid hits on front side.

 

[Dave M7040]

The damage to the rubber boot is not a crisis. There are many replacements available to replace damaged ones.

Autozone and most tractor places have easy to install replacement boots.

Best Tie Rod Dust Boot. Universal Type Parts for Cars, Trucks & SUVs

If I had your problem and a small angle grinder, I would put a cut off wheel on the grinder, a cut off wheel is a thin disk as compared to a thick one for grinding.

I would cut the casting at an angle so I did not come too close to the socket of the ball joint.

Once my groove was quite deep but not touching the ball joint stud, I would put the casting in a vice and hit in the cut slot with a big metal chisel to split the casting apart.

The other methods mentioned all work, this is just my way when I am at someone's home to help and they have limited tools.

Dave M7040

 

[CincyFlyer]

I have had them come apart using the hammer method without even using a puller or fork (an old trick I learned years ago while working in a wrecking yard).

I learned that technique working on Fiat automobiles in the seventies! The "BFH" method.

 

[orangeandgreen]

Watching someone with experience use the "2 hammer method" is quite enjoyable. An older neighbor showed me how to do it on my old JD years ago, he swung both hammers with perfect precision and the tie rod end jumped right out on the first hit. I can do it now, but it takes several whacks.

 

[Gary Fowler]

X-3 on using a backup hammer on one side and hit the other side 180*.
I have never used a pickle fork to get these apart, just the 2 hammer method on tie rods, ball joints and Pittman arms.
Use a 3 lb sledge hammer for back up and get solid hits on front side.

X2 (or more). I have a pickle fork but the hammer method works when you can get to them easily and get a sharp swing with a hammer.

 

[lennyzx11]

I like the two hammer method also. On a stubborn one I squirt penetrating oil into it from the nut side occasionally as I happen to walk by it a few times through the day. Usually two or three whacks have knocked all mine off.

 

[tjkubota93]

If you haven't used the "hammer method"
I would recommend buying that tie-rod puller to avoid messing anything up.
But if you do mess up something it would probably not cost any more to replace than the tool costs.

Loosen the jam nut, tape in place, take tie rod off, put broke piece in vice, unscrew castle nut and screw back on upside down about 1/4" from home and hit really hard it will pop out, unscrew castle nut, threads ok. Screw tie rod back on tighten jam nut and it's back like new without changing adjustment.

 

[Egon]

With the hammer method make sure the hammers are larger. Four pound or bigger. The backup must be solid on the casting and can be much heavier. The hammer swing should be brisk and solid. No light taps.

 

[Danger18]

Thanks for all the input. I'm across the country from
all my tools and was trying to avoid duplicate purchases. Got it off with a puller easily. On another note, the week or so it sat with a near empty tank was enough time to accumulate water in the fuel again. The DPF/regen does not like it at all. Went in to regen on time and stayed there for an hour, without completing. Cleaned both filters, no improvement. Added a biocide and within a few minutes the regen finished. Time to put a real water separator in he fuel line prior to he pre filter. Keeping the tank full seems to be important.