How would you fix this improperly installed deck?

[4570Man]

This is really only for the sake of discussion because I wasn’t hired to fix this only to replace the joist and boards on top. The original deck builder cut through the metal on the building to bolt the deck to the building. This left the metal open to leaking. Other than tearing the whole thing down and patching the hole with more metal or replacing that whole side is there any other options? Maybe unbolting it and supporting with temporary post and hoping the other post have enough flex to get some flashing behind it. The other post are 6x6 and they have a concrete slab poured around them with an unknown depth in the ground.

 

[two_bit_score]

The owner should be suing the original installer.

I wouldn稚 touch it with a 10 pole unless a signed disclaimer and indemnification agreement from the owner. I would have a good lawyer draw it up right.

You however, may do whatever you think is best.

TBS

 

[4570Man]

The owner should be suing the original installer.

Don’t touch it with a 10’ pole unless you get a signed disclaimer and indemnification agreement from the owner. Have a good lawyer draw it up right.

TBS

There was no original installer. He bought the place about a year ago and the previous owner built the garage and the deck himself. If he’s that upset which he’s not he could sell the place and turn a nice profit. Real estate is booming right now. The owner is aware of the problem and pointed it out before I noticed. The door installation on top of the deck is equally bad if not worse. The building is about 10 years old. I can’t believe how little water damage there is because if it. This whole deck is riddled with flaws and tearing down and starting over is probably the better plan but I doubt that’s happening. The original builders day job isn’t a builder and he should probably keep it that way.

 

[HCJtractor]

Wow. What idiot did that? Without seeing the whole thing, I like adding new posts under the building side, left permanently. Maybe the whole frame could be temporarily supported, then unattached from the concreted posts, then moved outward 1.5” to clear the ribs. Of course bring very careful not to drop the whole thing. But if you have to remove the decking anyway, it’s lighter without decking so that would help. OThen new metal siding could be slid under the upper siding to cover the hole, or the whole lower panel replaced. It could still be reattached to the building but with spacer shims of treated wood between the ribs and bolts or lags fixed to the building framing, sealed with some silicone where the siding is penetrated. Then the outer joists reattached to the outer posts but shimmed the same 1.5”. Then flexing the posts is not required and everything stays plumb and square assuming it was originally.

 

[4570Man]

Wow. What idiot did that? Without seeing the whole thing, I like adding new posts under the building side, left permanently. Maybe the whole frame could be temporarily supported, then unattached from the concreted posts, then moved outward 1.5” to clear the ribs. Of course bring very careful not to drop the whole thing. But if you have to remove the decking anyway, it’s lighter without decking so that would help. OThen new metal siding could be slid under the upper siding to cover the hole, or the whole lower panel replaced. It could still be reattached to the building but with spacer shims of treated wood between the ribs and bolts or lags fixed to the building framing, sealed with some silicone where the siding is penetrated. Then the outer joists reattached to the outer posts but shimmed the same 1.5”. Then flexing the posts is not required and everything stays plumb and square assuming it was originally.

Well I know the guy that built it originally. He’s not an idiot but obviously not a builder. I’d have still thought he’d know better than that. Maybe there was adult beverages involved. I agree now would definitely be the time to fix it not after I get done re decking the deck.

 

[HCJtractor]

You could certainly try to temporarily support it ( put in some temporary diagonal supports also) then detach it. You really only need 2” max of movement to be able to slide new panels underneath. You may be able to use a come-along or ratchet strap to pull it away enough for a repair. But splitting a post or framing member, or the concrete, would be a risk.

 

[HCJtractor]

Post some more photos if you have any. But I doubt it would be that hard to repair, assuming the siding is available

 

[4570Man]

The picture in the first post is the only one I currently have. The building was built about 10 years after and there’s no extra material. Rather or not it’s available is another question.

 

[Barnbuilder]

They make standoffs to keep the ledger away from siding for drainage. If you could support it, put new metal behind it and put spacers between the two with bolts would work.

 

[HCJtractor]

You can probably find the same profile metal. But if not, any flat sheet metal would work to make it water tight. It won’t look as good but it doesn’t show that much anyway. The larger gaps that critters could get in could be filled with caulk or foam, maybe even from the inside if it’s exposed.