HOW WOULD YOU GO ABOUT IT?

[LBrown59]

HOW WOULD YOU GO ABOUT IT?

I need to move an 8x16 storage building back about 12 feet.
It has 2 skids running the 16' length, but I need to move it back in the 8' direction instead of going the same direction as the skids run.
Would 4'' plastic pipe work for rollers or would the weight of the building crush the pipe?
The building is 2x4 frame construction with aluminum sheet siding.
Wonder what the building weighs?
Will my BX23 be able to handle pulling or pushing it the 12 feet?
Anybody got a plan for doing this?

 

[crbr]

Four inch schedule 80 PVC should hold the weight. A couple of 10' sticks of PVC should do it. If not a couple of clothes-line poles will work too.... An 8' x 16' can't weight too much. Indeed the tractor will pull it the course. I use a come-along from the bumper of my truck to maneuver an 8 x 12 on skids. No problems.


You may even consider jacking it up with a floor jack and running two additional skids under the ones there now, perpindicular to those, and slide it on that.

 

[RonMar]

4" PVC will most likley crush. An 8'X16' is going to weigh a bit.

If I were doing it, I would first lift/jack it up on one end to get a beam across between the two rails. Then in the middle and then on the other end. While it is up and you are putting in the cross beams, put in something smooth such as plywood or another piece of wood like a 2X6 under the cross beams. Between the cross beam put a few small rollers. Sections of 3/4" hardwood dowel work well. Ideally you would want the base pieces to be long enough to reach the new shed location but 8' shed +12' move = 20 foot runners. You could get by with shorter runners but you will have to leapfrog them as you move and the rollers may want to force them apart as they roll over the point where they meet. You can screw in side supports to keep the boards from separating. If you can, attach the cross beams to the skids temporarilly so the skids don't slide off the cross beams if the rollers encounter an obstacle.

Attach a temporary protector such as a sheet of plywood in the middle of the side opposite the direction you want to go so your bucket dosn't do any damage to the wall when you push(something that spans several of the wall studs to distribute the force). If the ground is level, once it is up on rollers, and the rolling surfaces are smooth and clean, you may be able to push the shed by hand, but if the bucket is used it should take very little force to roll along the boards. I have a 1000# + generator that I move around my garage floor on 3/4" steel rod rollers between the frame rails and the floor. With a clean floor surface(no sand, rocks or other small obstructions) I can push it across the floor with 1 hand quite easilly. 1 small piece of debris will stop it easilly though so keep the runners clean.
Unless you cut a LOT of rollers, you will have to leapfrog the rollers from back to front. If the direction of travel is downhill, you may have to take steps to restrain the shed from rolling on it's own.
As with moving any large mass object, it is far easier to hold it in place than to stop it once it starts to move. Small slow controlled motions are the order of the day.

Good luck

 

[DieselPower]

I have some pictures, somewhere! I had to move a shed about that size about 12 years ago. I just by chance had a set of mag rims off of a 70's Ford pickup truck that I used. I jacked up each end of the building, slid a 4X4 under it that had a rim slid on the end and lowered the shed down onto it. I probably had the only shed on wheels in PA that day. Worked like a charm.

 

[Fjord]

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You may even consider jacking it up with a floor jack and running two additional skids under the ones there now, perpindicular to those, and slide it on that.

I had to move a 12 x 12 shed afew years ago and that is what I did . I made the new skids by nailing 2 2x8's together and then cutting a slope on the front so they weren't blunt and wouldn't dig into the ground. Next, I took a spade bit and drilled a 1" or 1 1/4" hole all the way through and put a loop of small ( 1/4" I think) chain through it to attach my pulling chains to. That way I was pulling on the skids and could also lift the front of it a bit. Don't put too many nails in the 2 x 8's and then you can take thrm apart and build something else with them when you're done. Don't know what to tell you about the BX. I was using an old IH tractor, 2wd but much heavier.

 

[George2615]

I also moved a shed, (18Wx10D). Mine had several 4x4 supports underneath running the 10' direction and I needed to drag it sideways like you. I lifted each corner and shimmed it w/ misc. pieces of wood until the whole shed was off the ground. I bought 2 - 2x8x20' long boards and ran them under the 4x4's so they stuck out on each side. Then I bolted a 2x4 across the 2x8's on one side and a piece of 1 1/2 x 2 rectangle steel tubing across the side I was going to pull from. Took the 2x4 shims out so it was now sitting on the 2x8x20's. I wrapped a chain around the steel tubing and lifted slightly with the 3pt and skidded the whole thing to its new location.

 

[AlanB]

Pg. 7 of the Al B's house rework on the projects page.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...19d1174443311-al-bs-house-rework-dscn2006.jpg

4" PVC

Moved several of them this way over the years, sometimes we crush a pipe when we get all the weight on one pipe, but all in all it works real well.

 

[crbr]

Pg. 7 of the Al B's house rework on the projects page.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...19d1174443311-al-bs-house-rework-dscn2006.jpg

4" PVC

Moved several of them this way over the years, sometimes we crush a pipe when we get all the weight on one pipe, but all in all it works real well.

Schedule 80 will hold up nicely, for most applications....

 

[MossRoad]

You may even consider jacking it up with a floor jack and running two additional skids under the ones there now, perpindicular to those, and slide it on that.

That seems like the most practical soultion to get it to go back and forth instead of side to side.

 

[RFB]

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