HST Creep

[PaulT]

My new (48 hrs since May) 2710 creeps when I let off the pedal. It seems to do it in both forward and reverse, and is worse on slopes. It does seem to find neutral after a little while, but it varies each time. It may be 6 inches, or it may be 4 feet. In reverse, it also varies, but seems to stop sooner than in forward. I looked briefly at the linkage tonight, and it does appear to be adjustable. I don't want to do the dealer thing, since I bought it over the internet. Also, it will be much easier (and faster) to just turn a wrench in the right place. Can anyone tell me where that right place is? Are you there, Kubmech??

PaulT

 

[Joeinindy]

Can't help on how to do it but my L3410 does it to a lesser degree also. The dealer said it is not unusual and the linkage needs adjustment to correct it. He said it's an easy fix.

 

[Bird]

PaulT, I've never needed to adjust one, so I won't try to give you instructions, but maybe the attached page from the Workshop Manual will let you identify the neutral adjust nut; might help.

I'm going to guess that, if it's doing it both forward and backwards, then the spring may not be returning it to the right place; i.e., the neutral adjust may not be the problem, maybe the spring instead?

Bird

 

[snowman]

On my B7500HST, there is a zerk fitting on the HST pedal where the front and back join together...
if you have one on the 2710, you may just need some grease.

Mine would stick too; greasing helped, and I grease it on a regular basis now.

 

[art]

Do to the problem you are facing I would say that the neural adjusting screw is loose. If you were going forward all the time or backwards it would still be this screw. With yours being a variable problem it tells me it might just be loose. Raise the rear of the tractor and put it into two wheel drive than center the linkage so the rear wheels stop moving and tighten it.

 

[Bird]

Snowman, no grease zerk on the B2710 (like my B7100 had, too), but I do suspect cleaning and lubricating (maybe with something like a spray lubricant?) might solve the problem. At least I think that's where I'd start.

Bird

 

[GlueGuy]

Paul,

I'd go along with Bird & Snowman on this one. Sounds like the pedal may be sticking. Mine has gotten "sticky" on a couple of occasions, and a little lube helps it right out.

The GlueGuy

 

[Bird]

I didn't think about that, Art; loose screw sounds like a likely suspect.

Bird

 

[kubmech]

Paul, These hydro set ups have been pretty much the same for a long time, after they get some use they all seem to act up(the new L10's use a servo to move the swash plate and seem to work a whole lot better). Is it worse in high at a faster ground speed? Most likely it is. Part of the problem (by design) is if your moving at a fair speed and you let the pedal snap back to neutral (even more pronounced with extra weight on the machine or traveling down a slope) the motor portion of the hst is now being driven by the tractor and becomes a pump which backs the fluid against the variable pump. Pressure builds and it requires more spring tension to pull the swash plate back to neutral. Try to slowly return the pedal to neutral and see if that helps. Keeping everything well lubricated is a plus, any tension in the linkage from lack of lube will definitely cause problems. If you look at Birds attachment you'll see that there is no adustment for the spring tension and I'd be suprised if it has lost enough tension to cause a problem
with your hours. If the adjustment bolt (#8 in the breakdown has loosened up yes that would be a problem but I,d imagine that it would be really bad. The basic procedure for adjusting neutral is,. Raise the rear wheels off the ground (don't forget the jackstands) I think the B10's still use a plug in the side of the frame, right side near all the linkage for the hst. Pull the black rubber plug out of the frame and you should see #8. Make sure the tractor is not in 4 wheel drive!!!!! Loosen the 12mm bolt, start the tractor, select low range, full throttle, put a screwdriver in the slot and turn till the wheels just start to move, mentally note this point, turn it the other direction till the wheels just start to move in the other direction and note that point. Now set it right in the middle of those two points and tighten the bolt without moving the adjustment. You should be adjusted correctly now. To check it run the pedal full forward and let it snap back to neutral, it should stop pretty quick, do the same with reverse. If you noticed the wheels are still turning slightly (don't forget to watch both wheels the other side may be turning do to the differential) see
if you can stop it by hand (carefully), if you can, certainly it wont move with the weight of the machine on it. If there's still a substantial amount of drive to the wheels turn the adjuster slightly in the opposite direction of the wheel rotation. You may have to repeat the procedure a few times to get it just right.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Excellent description Kubmech.