Husqvarna TS 354d Kohler KT740 Won’t Turn Over

[dieselscout80]

I picked up a non-running Husqvarna TS 354d Kohler KT740 and I am kinda stumped.

It won’t turn over it only clicks when I try to start it (with me in seat part brake set and PTO off).

Battery has 12.51 volts and I have cleaned the grounds both at battery and frame. I have continuity from negative terminal to frame and engine.

I have continuity from positive terminal of battery to solenoid and from the other large terminal to the starter.

With the key on I have continuity across the two large terminals on the solenoid.

I replaced the solenoid with the one from my other Husqvarna rider that runs and it still won't turn over. All the above checks are still the same.

If I jump across the solenoid main terminals it cranks just fine.

I also have 12 volts at the fuel solenoid/ shutoff a carburetor with the key on.

Attached is from the KT740 manual and the won’t turn over section is highlighted.

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[CobyRupert]

Check for bad ground/frame connection for the battery? Clean where ground wire bolts to frame.

That’s the other piece of the continuity loop (circle..aka:”circuit”) that is required for current to flow from battery pos+, through solenoid, through starter, through frame to battery neg- post.


….oops…that doesn’t explain why it cranks fine when you short the solenoid. And you said you cleaned it. It seems more like a “start” signal isn’t getting to the solenoid (small terminal), or the solenoid isn’t closing if it does. Instead of continuity, are you measuring ~12.51 at the solenoid small coil terminal when you turn the key to start?

The more I re-read your post, the more I realize youre already on the right path…but don’t have good answers. I don’t understand why you have continuity across the large solenoid terminals (contacts) and it doesn’t crank, yet when you short those terminals it does crank. That says: bad solenoid, or you’re not measuring what you think you are.

 

[dieselscout80]

Check for bad ground/frame connection for the battery? Clean where ground wire bolts to frame.

That’s the other piece of the continuity loop (circle..aka:”circuit”) that is required for current to flow from battery pos+, through solenoid, through starter, through frame to battery neg- post.


….oops…that doesn’t explain why it cranks fine when you short the solenoid. That seems more like a “start” signal isn’t getting to the solenoid (small terminal), or the solenoid isn’t closing if ot does.

As I stated I checked and cleaned the grounds on both the battery and frame before I posted the 1st time.

That said your post is 100% CORRECT.

 

[garry1p]

Make sure the brake switch is making.
I don't remember exactly how to get to it but IIRC when you depress the brake it moves the linkage and the safety switch itself is up under the dash on left side from the sitting position.

The linkage can be seen by removing the small black panel on the left side.

On edit
I just noticed you have the Kohler and I have the Kawaski probably the same.

Also the safety switches IFIRC break ground, backward from what I expected.

 

[Roadworthy]

I wonder about the start position on your ignition switch. You may be getting no or inadequate voltage to the solenoid to activate it. You could try a jumper from the battery to the activation terminal of the solenoid and see if that does it. I lost the start position on my Craftsman's switch and just wired in an external start button.

 

[dieselscout80]

I was using my solenoid that I know was working because I just used it.

That said I just cracked it so now I need a new one.

I reverified that I am getting 12.77 volts across the two small wires that engage the solenoid.