Hydrant Valve Packing - Graphite, Teflon - Which one to use?

   / Hydrant Valve Packing - Graphite, Teflon - Which one to use? #1  

dirt ditch

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I have an old hydrant that has started leaking around the nut after someone tried to open the valve while it was frozen. Already tried tightening the nut a couple times but that did not work as it looks like that has been done several times in the past. Hardware store had two types of packing, both the same price. I have used graphite before with good results and probably use it again, but I'm wondering does graphite and Teflon have different uses as packing?

View attachment 491380 View attachment 491381
 
   / Hydrant Valve Packing - Graphite, Teflon - Which one to use? #2  
Looks like an old Simmons hydrant. Repair kits available to do the whole mechanism. The packing at that rod/nut is a cylinder. You would only need 3/4" of either kind and you have to get the nut started with the rope in there.

Can't you find a plumbing supply that has just the graphite cylinder, or use a faucet washer ? If you use the rope you won't have to take it all apart, though.

Meanwhile, you should never leave a hose attached to such a hydrant because it will not drain back at the base. That's why it froze.
 
   / Hydrant Valve Packing - Graphite, Teflon - Which one to use? #3  
If you have to replace the hydrant or for those installing new hydrants buy Baker Monitor brand. They don't have stem packing, it uses a spool with rubber O rings. Works like a hydraulic valve.

bakerhydrant.jpg


Capture.JPG


Didn't know about that type until we moved here in 2011.

Another advantage is you can loosen the set screw and point the spout any direction.

Ours is eleven years old.

PA190009.JPG
 
   / Hydrant Valve Packing - Graphite, Teflon - Which one to use? #4  
I fixed a similar hydrant last summer, although it wasn't a Simmons. It didn't use rope type packing. I bought a repair kit online from the manufacturer that was about $20 and had all the moving parts, I highly recommend going this route then and replacing all the guts then you can forget about it for another 20 years.

I had another one where the head was cracked and I was able to buy a new head and plunger -- basically everything but the pipe. It wasn't expensive. I replaced them with the pipe still in the ground and it's essentially a brand-new hydrant. In general I find with plumbing that trying to work with worn parts is just an exercise in frustration.

If the parts cost more than a new one, buy a new one and take the parts off of it.
 
   / Hydrant Valve Packing - Graphite, Teflon - Which one to use? #5  
I fixed a similar hydrant last summer, although it wasn't a Simmons. It didn't use rope type packing. I bought a repair kit online from the manufacturer that was about $20 and had all the moving parts, I highly recommend going this route then and replacing all the guts then you can forget about it for another 20 years.

I had another one where the head was cracked and I was able to buy a new head and plunger -- basically everything but the pipe. It wasn't expensive. I replaced them with the pipe still in the ground and it's essentially a brand-new hydrant. In general I find with plumbing that trying to work with worn parts is just an exercise in frustration.

If the parts cost more than a new one, buy a new one and take the parts off of it.

I'll bet it was a Woodford Iowa model. Same here thoughts. You can replace botton and top seals without pulling the hydrant out of the ground.
 
   / Hydrant Valve Packing - Graphite, Teflon - Which one to use?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
You guys are right. replacing worn parts is the best way to do this. The hardware store does not have a kit for my hydrant and I don't have time to run around looking so I called a local plumber to come fix it. Thanks.
 

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