Hydraulic block basics

Antigonish · Dec 2, 2005

I have a Cub Cadet 7275 that came equipped with a back hoe that operated completely independently of the three point hitch. I just removed the hoe and attached a snowblower. To get power to raise and lower the hitch I had to switch the "shut-off plate" on the hydraulic block from "S" [which I assume stands for "shut"] to "O" ["open?"]. Now the FEL has no power.

Before I play around with the block and the hoses attached to it I need to know some basics that are not explained in my owners manual. First, the manual says that the shut off plate must be in the "O" position when the remote attachment is not installed and warns that "Failure to do so will cause damage to the hydraulic system." Why? What kind of damage will result? I am assuming the control box for my backhoe was a "remote" [correct?]

The manual labels three outlets on the hydraulic block. I would kind of like to know what each of the labels means: T [return to tank?], N [neutral?], P [power?]. Also I don't get the couplings. I would have thought that (as with a garden hose) male ends would be for outflow and female ends for inflow, but I have both kinds coming out of the same exit from the block.

I have included an image of the block with labels. Quick release couplings come out of the face and fixed hoses out of the sides of the block. To disconnect the hoe I pulled a male coupling off "N" and a female off "T." I currently have one hose coming from the FEL control box [ie with the stick lever] and connecting to "T" with a female coupling and another coming from the same place and connecting to "P" with a female coupling.

Can anyone tell me how to modify this setup to restore power to the FEL and/or enough info to figure out what is going on with the hydraulics?

Thanks a million!

chubby · Dec 3, 2005

On by 7360ss w/hoe, I have a fitting on rear at top and another on loader joy stick. When removing I unplug both fittings and replug another hose at joy stick block. I don't move any thing at hyd block. I think you are missing a jumper hose that will keep the flow flowing or maybe your blower has hoses that plug in to the block. Is your blower front or rear mount?

Antigonish · Dec 3, 2005

Thanks for the reply. The snowblower is a rear mount and runs off the PTO. It depends on the hydraulics of the three point hitch to be raised and lowered, but it has no hydraulics of its own (the chute is on a manual crank).

chubby · Dec 3, 2005

We probably have the same hoe Cub 408, Woods. I was told all aux. power comes thru loader. On mine, female connect at loader block and a male connect on the top of the rear to dump after going thru the hoe. When hoe is removed I must reconnect a female at the loader joystick block. You must have a jumper to do the same. Put the main block back to the orginial spot and connect the jumper to both ends that you disconnected your hoe from. I think that will be your answer.

Antigonish · Dec 4, 2005

You're right, mine is a Cub 408. Let me get this straight. You are saying that I should take the two hoses that went to the hoe and connect them to one another to complete the circuit that was broken when the hoe was removed? You are also saying that I should shift the shut-off plate on the hydraulic block back to "S?" (I sure wish I knew more about the "why?" here.)

Unrelated question: will your 408 move out and to the side simultaneously in a fluid motion or does it alternate between the two in a staggered motion [like mine]?

chubby · Dec 5, 2005

Operation in and out and left or right is smooth both at the same time. Without being there it is hard to tell what is not right. When I remove my hoe, I plug (cap) the rear connection with a dust plug and connect another hose to the back of loader hyd. block. When hoe is on this hose just hangs with a dust plug in it. I don't know if your hoses should be hooked together or if each should be hooked to something else. I have never traced mine to see where they go because everything works so good I let a sleeping dog lay. I have had to replace both outrigger lines and the hoe feed line but all else is good to go! I have two of these tractors and have never moved the main hyd. block selector. I put about 300 hrs a year on each. I use the 7360ss mainly as a backhoe/loader and the 7265 for mowing and grading. So both loaders and pto's get used a lot.

Antigonish · Dec 6, 2005

It now works! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I switched the shut-off plate back to "O" like you suggested Chubby. The two hoses from the hoe had attached to the "N" outlet on the hydraulic block and to a hose from the FEL stick shift. I took the disconnected hose from the FEL box [a female end] and connected it to the male end at the "N" outlet of the hydraulic block.

I am still not sure what is going on exactly. It might help if the manual came with the hydraulic equivalent of a wiring diagram. What I did learn from a buddy who helped me out was that damage can result if the hydraulics get hooked up in such a way that fluid is forced in one direction with no outlet. When that happens you should hear a squealing sound. As I understand it these tractors are constantly pumping oil so that every control lever must have neutral position that allows the oil to circulate when it is not being directed to one of the cylinders.

chubby · Dec 7, 2005

Glad all is working. Remember hyd pump is always running and fluid must flow somewhere. The only bad thing on these super tractors are the fliter prices. 78.00 for air filter! 115.00 for one hyd. filter, this is slaming. Mits. is the "Jesse James" here not the dealer. My local dealer has been trying to find another outlet for the filters because he knows they are crazy. The new 45 hpr. air filter is only 25.00. Why? because the engine is not Mits. it is Kioti. Mits has you and they know it, and like a pit bull they won't let go. I thought after these tractors got some age on them the price to maintain would become a little cheaper, but the cost still increases. For four years I have looked for cheaper filters without any luck. Mits. dosen't make these they also buy them. One Kubota air filter is close to the Mits. and a 1/4 of the price, but still is not correct. And who would put an air filter in that is not correct? Not me I know what can happen. I will get off my soap box and pay the price knowing that my tractors will operate for a long time with the proper filters.