Hydraulic Check Valves

[cmuncy]

I've noticed in the past on my TnT that the cylinders raarely stay in the position that I set them at. I have hearrd mention of check valves used in the past and am curious to those that have them, where you got them??

Thanks

 

[PineRidge]

The cylinders that we purchased had them already installed. I have seen the double piloted check valves offered at eBay from time to time but they aren't cheap.

Your cylinders won't drift if you have them.

 

[MadReferee]

The double pilot operated check valves that are found on the CCM cylinders are not available anywhere here in the USA. Other check valves are available but they do not have the correct specs, especially for the cracking pressure. We discussed this about 2 years ago where Mark (CCI) explained in detail what specs were needed for the valve to work properly for the TNT configuration.

Your best and cheapest way to go is to get a new cylinder with the double pilot operated check valves already installed and use your old cylinder for something else.

 

[cmuncy]

Mad,

I believe I found that post late last night.

I just didn't know if there was a "standard" part number that people were using.

I have a couple of very good hydraulic resources here in town that I have access to. I guess I'll have to see what I can get. I would really prefer NOT to buy another TnT cylinder set. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have a couple of very good hydraulic resources here in town that I have access to. I guess I'll have to see what I can get. )</font>

Been there, done that.

I have a very good friend who has owned his own hydraulic repair business for over 40 years use his sources and look and he came up blank.

You got to go overseas to get the right one. Mark's cylinders are made in Spain with BSPP threads. I also found a place in the UK that has the correct valve but buying and shipping would have made the overall price more than a $175 new cylinder.

By the time you get the valve and all the fittings and hoses or solid lines and get it mounted somewhere it is way way more cost effective to buy a new top link cylinder.

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( By the time you get the valve and all the fittings and hoses or solid lines and get it mounted somewhere it is way way more cost effective to buy a new top link cylinder.
)</font>

Absolutely! As I read cmuncy's first post, that's exactly what I thought. As soon as I saw your post, I knew you would say the same thing I was thinking. You also mentioned only the toplink. I personally don't have a checkvalve on my tilt cylinder and I don't think it is nearly as critical as the toplink. Since the 3PH floats, positioning the implement just so the lower side touches the ground is far more important than having a rigid tilt cylinder. If you tilt your implement and then drop the 3PH all the way down, the implement tends to settle and you lose most of the effect of having the implement tilted in the first place.

I would recommend saving a lot of trouble and just order the toplink from Mark. That's what I did and it makes all the difference in the way my toplink works. It's worth the money. One of these days I'm going to find a use for that extra toplink I have laying in my shed collecting dust. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue"> One of these days I'm going to find a use for that extra toplink I have laying in my shed collecting dust.
</font>

Jim if I had an extra cylinder the wheels would already be turning on a new project. Do you need a Texas snowplow using your cylinder to lift it? Bet you don't see much snow out west. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Jim if I had an extra cylinder the wheels would already be turning on a new project. Do you need a Texas snowplow using your cylinder to lift it? Bet you don't see much snow out west. )</font>

My "wheels are turning," but I can't seem to get any traction. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Actually, I was thinking of several uses, but they are all one-off jobs. I can't come up with anything useful on a repetitive basis. So far I've thought of T-post puller, portable building jack, rear wheel tractor jack, and hydraulic actuated wheels for my rock bucket since I constantly exceed the lift limits of my FEL when I use it. I really like the wheel idea the most. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[PineRidge]

Jim a hydraulic controlled wheelchair assisted rock bucket might be an interesting project to say the least. I'll watch for your thread in the project area. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[skipmarcy]

cmuncy, I used a Prince valve that I got from surplus center(surpluscenter.com) for my toplink cylinder and it works just fine, exactly as it's supposed to. It's a little bulky and a little pricey but does the job, and I do a tremendous amount of boxblade work commercially and it also handles & holds my rather heavy bushog wherever I set it. I paid $72 for the valve and spent about $20 on steel line and fittings from a local hydraulic shop to do the install. I made a mounting bracket from some 3" channel iron to bolt the valve to, then used stainless hose clamps to attach the bracket to the cylinder. My cylinder is 2 1/2" diameter. I split some 5/16" rubber fuel hose to put along the 2 edges of the channel iron where it meets the cylinder to keep it from abrading the cylinder. All works like a champ!!!