Hydraulic Cylinder Sizing

[msb1766]

I have a subcompact tractor Cub/Yanmar Sc2450 and I am going to add rear remotes to the tractor.

I want to add a hydraulic top link and a hydraulic angle cylinder to my back blade.
Looking for advice on the size of the cylinders as in bore and rod size.

The top link is used for my ballast box, flail mower and back blade. The flail mower weighs 515 pounds and is the heaviest. I sometimes push snow and ice into piles of already frozen snow reverse with the back blade.

As for the top link I am looking at a cylinder that fits the same size in retracted and extended lengths as my current top link, 13.25” retracted and 19.25” extended so it's a 6” stroke.
and has a 1.5" bore and 1" rod diameter, is the rod diameter ok for a top link?
Or should it have a larger rod diameter?

As for the angle cylinder I am looking at 2 cylinders, the first one has a 2” bore, 10” stroke and 1.25” rod.
The second has 2.5” bore, 10” stroke and 1.5” rod.

I am not concerned about cycle time as they are both short strokes, I just want to get the strongest cylinder without overkill.

 

[Billrog]

I've been using a utility cyliner with 1.25 rod and 8" stroke for 20 yrs. No problems and I've hooked the corner of the blade many times.

 

[Vigo327]

I think you are already into overkill in both regards, and everything you mentioned would work fine. Keep in mind Cat1 top pin is 3/4".. So as for whether a 1" rod is strong enough for a top link, is a 1" rod stronger in tension/compression than a 3/4" rod is in shear? Yeah.. you'll be fine!

 

[Green Tea]

I have a subcompact tractor Cub/Yanmar Sc2450 and I am going to add rear remotes to the tractor.

I want to add a hydraulic top link and a hydraulic angle cylinder to my back blade.
Looking for advice on the size of the cylinders as in bore and rod size.

The top link is used for my ballast box, flail mower and back blade. The flail mower weighs 515 pounds and is the heaviest. I sometimes push snow and ice into piles of already frozen snow reverse with the back blade.

As for the top link I am looking at a cylinder that fits the same size in retracted and extended lengths as my current top link, 13.25” retracted and 19.25” extended so it's a 6” stroke.
and has a 1.5" bore and 1" rod diameter, is the rod diameter ok for a top link?
Or should it have a larger rod diameter?

As for the angle cylinder I am looking at 2 cylinders, the first one has a 2” bore, 10” stroke and 1.25” rod.
The second has 2.5” bore, 10” stroke and 1.5” rod.

I am not concerned about cycle time as they are both short strokes, I just want to get the strongest cylinder without overkill.

Seen you added this on your cab cadet. I have the exact tractor and I want to do the same. (husband passed and trying to make the tractor more woman friendly. I'm retired military but not nearly as strong as my husband) can you send me what you used and how you hooked it up. Pictures with explanation would be great. Thanks!
spharaoh@yahoo.com

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Please look at this link to double check regarding the best overall working length for your tractor.

This provides an equal or at least close to amount of adjustment in both directions.
While your top link may provide close to an equal amount of adjustment in both directions, many do not and the recommendation of getting a range close to what the manual link provides is simply not the best way to determine something that provides an equal amount of adjustment in both directions from the implement level point adjustment.

If it were me, I would be looking for a 2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/4" dia rod.