hydraulic dump questions

[hp246]

it looks like i'll be out of commission for a couple weeks, so looks like i have time to plan some projects. sorry, at this time i;m unable to take pics or provide exact measurements.

i would like to convert an existing trailer to a dump trailer to be used behind my jd3038e. primary use will be to haul firewood and do landscaping around mt place, it was originally built to haul 250 gallons of water. the tank is gone, but the frame is about a 4ft by 8 ft. the axle look like it was originally from a ford pickup as it has a 9 inch pumpkin.

here is what i'm thinking about doing: i plan to build a new frame on top of the original frame. it will hinged with a full width hinge at the back. it will be secured with pins welded to the front of the trailer. i was planning to use hydraulic cylinders to raise and lower the lift. bottom will be 3/4 womanized plywood with staked sides.

questions:
1. 1 cylinder in the middle or 2, 1 on each side
2. how far from the back of the trailer should the cylinders be mounted and how long a cylinder do i need
3. what angle should the bed be raised to have a dependable dump
4. any tricks to keep cylinders from binding
5. will i need to make any alterations to the hydraulic system on the tractor. it doesn't have a loader.

ps also thinking about doing a logsplitter to be run off the tractor hydraulics, but recently saw some post on the pto driven splitters and wondered if anyone had experience building your own

sorry about the punctuation, trying to do this 1 handed flat on my back

 

[LD1]

1. 1 cylinder in the middle or 2, 1 on each side

Let the job decide. One cylinder is going to have to be a bigger diameter and you are going to have to have a STRONG anchor point in the middle of the trailer which may require some more fabrication. Two cylinders may not need as strong of anchors because there are two of them to share the load and if you can anchor them to the frame rails of the existing frame, no need for a hefty center crossmember.

2. how far from the back of the trailer should the cylinders be mounted and how long a cylinder do i need

Those two go hand in hand. You really need to take a good look at how you are going to design the trailer and decide on what cylinders you are going to use. The farther forward, the longer cylinder is needed. Farther back can use a shorter cylinder but it has to be a larger diameter and it puts more stress on the rear hinge points as well as the bed hanging beyond the cylinder when the dump is raised needs to pe pleanty strong as well.

3. what angle should the bed be raised to have a dependable dump

Anywhere between 40 and 50 degrees should be adequate. But it really depends on what you are dumping. Wet heavy clay soil is a PITA even if you dump to a much steeper angle.

4. any tricks to keep cylinders from binding

Not really. Just make sure your rear pivots are in alignment with eachother and pretty hefty. Also, if you use two cylinders on each side, make sure they are moundted in the same places and on exactally the same angle.

5. will i need to make any alterations to the hydraulic system on the tractor. it doesn't have a loader.

Do you have rear remotes? If not, you can either tap into the power port on the tractor and install remotes, or you can buy a PTO driven pump.


Building a dump bed isnt hard, but planning is the key. The flatter of an angle you make the cylinder, the less dump force it is going to have. The steeper of an angle you go, you will get greater force but may run into ground clearence with the base pivot point.

I'll throw you a link to a dump bed I built. Covers some of the math and planning involved. And if I can find it, there was another thread not too long ago about another dump bed build.

Good luck

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/158521-turning-1985-dodge-into-real.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/197519-superduty-dump-build.html

 

[hp246]

thanks ld1. expect i can use a an sa cylinder. if the tractor is already set, what would you recommend for a control on the trailer. also hose a fittings.

 

[LD1]

Yes you can use a SA cylinder but sometimes they are more expensive an/or harder to come by. You can use a DA cylinder as a SA cylinder, just use a vent plug in the other port, but DONT block it completely or the air has no where to go.

The controller will depend on how you choose to power it. If using rear remotes, no need for a separate controller. If using a pto pump, you can get by without a controller as well, just turn the pto on when you want it to dump, and off when you want it to come down.

If you do want a controller, get an open center valve, that way, when in the neutral position you arent building MAX psi before it returns back to tank.

And hoses will depend on what GPM you want to run through them. There are pleanty of charts online as to sizing lines for given GPM. But 3/8 hose will probabally be what you need.

 

[hp246]

Yes you can use a SA cylinder but sometimes they are more expensive an/or harder to come by. You can use a DA cylinder as a SA cylinder, just use a vent plug in the other port, but DONT block it completely or the air has no where to go.

The controller will depend on how you choose to power it. If using rear remotes, no need for a separate controller. If using a pto pump, you can get by without a controller as well, just turn the pto on when you want it to dump, and off when you want it to come down.

If you do want a controller, get an open center valve, that way, when in the neutral position you arent building MAX psi before it returns back to tank.

And hoses will depend on what GPM you want to run through them. There are pleanty of charts online as to sizing lines for given GPM. But 3/8 hose will probabally be what you need.

excellent. thanks a bunch.