Box Scraper Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

[VA MTN MAN]

If you have wave like humps make your passes in reverse to start and this will cut the humps off before your wheels get to them. Set your top link so the back blade on the box is just below the front so it wont dig too deep. Then you can turn around to finish.

 

[/pine]

...Guess all I can do is revisit my setup and work on my technique.

If you have a hydraulic top link it makes things much easier...

I would start with the scarifiers fully extended and break it all up....keep working the high spots so the material is loosened down to the desired (flat) level)

Then raise the rippers and with the blade still set aggressively (forward)...push the box blade backwards over the area...

keep repeating until there are no more obvious high spots...

If you have an FEL...it can be smooted even more with some judicial backdragging with the heel of the bucket...

 

[kennyd]

For now anyway. I have a 3720 that came standard with draft control. Before assuming that your 4320 did too, I took a quick look at the website. I was quite surprised to discover it's not spec'd with draft control. It might be worth a call though, to see if it's something that could be retrofitted at the dealer

//greg//

Draft control on a 3720? New one on me...Where is the lever that control's it?

I think you may be confusing "position control" for "draft control"

http://www.tractorsmart.com/main/Tractor Three Point Lift Types.htm

 

[greg_g]

Thanks for clearing that up. A JD service truck mech referred to the linkage on the left side of the rear diff as "draft control". That confused me a bit, because I didn't see any means of toplink feedback like on my previous two tractors. He couldn't explain, so I just let it drop. Now I see I should have pursued that farther. It's pretty clear now that he incorrectly identified the position control feedback linkage as draft control

//greg//

 

[Farmer wannabe]

Thanks everyone. Your comments are helpful. I live in Southern NV. I used my tractor and its predecessor (another JD that burnt to the rims one sorrowful Christmas Eve) to build my house. In short, I love my tractor. I work hard to find every excuse to get in the seat, to grease it, to maintain it, to look for another excuse to buy an additional attachment, etc. The jist of your helpful comments is for me to get back in the saddle and practice--use makes master.

A man in our small community has about twelve ancient tractors (some steam powered) that he enters in the County fair every year. This year I intend to make his acquantaince and learn more about my tractor's roots.

Cheers

 

[Farmer wannabe]

If you have wave like humps make your passes in reverse to start and this will cut the humps off before your wheels get to them. Set your top link so the back blade on the box is just below the front so it wont dig too deep. Then you can turn around to finish.

I get your point. Good idea. That way the box acts more like a dozer.

 

[Farmer wannabe]

If you have a hydraulic top link it makes things much easier...

I would start with the scarifiers fully extended and break it all up....keep working the high spots so the material is loosened down to the desired (flat) level)

Then raise the rippers and with the blade still set aggressively (forward)...push the box blade backwards over the area...

keep repeating until there are no more obvious high spots...

If you have an FEL...it can be smooted even more with some judicial backdragging with the heel of the bucket...

Sorry -- what is FEL?

 

[jenkinsph]

If you can weld or have a friend that can consider building a landplane/grader as these things are great for smoothing out the bumps you speak of.

 

[kennyd]

Sorry -- what is FEL?

Front End Loader