Hydraulic Grapple on a QA FEL TC45D
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DocHeb
Veteran Member
Yes it is possible. Using the rear remotes means your right hand will be jumping from the Joystick to the right fender rear-remote control, but with a little practice I'm sure it will become second nature in no time.
The most elegant solution was PineRidge's Front Hydraulics Control that utilized a small button on the joystick and an electric divertor valve. This idea is listed in my favorites for future consideration.
The most elegant solution was PineRidge's Front Hydraulics Control that utilized a small button on the joystick and an electric divertor valve. This idea is listed in my favorites for future consideration.
jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 20,387
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Is is feasible to run hoses all the way from the back to the grapple?
)</font>
Yes, it is feasible and works quite well. The diverter valve is a more elegant solution, but also much more involved than the rear remote that you already have installed.
Here is what I'd suggest:
1. Measure the distance you will need for hoses. Use rope or some other suitable line to run a mock-up hose from the rear remotes so you will have an accurate measurement of the hoses you will need. For the hoses from the front loader crossmember to the grapple, you will probably need at least 6' to allow the grapple to curl. Depending on grapple design, you may need 7' for this.
2. Use 1/4", 4000 psi hose. The smaller the hose, the more fine control you will have. This is important with something like a grapple. The small hose will have less ballooning and make your grapple hold better once you get a grip on something. You will also need to install a single orifice (0.030") in one line.
3. You will need three hose segments in each line.
- rear remote to loader support upright
- loader upright to front crossmember
- front crossmember to grapple cylinder.
4. At each end of the hose segments you need quick connects and you also will need several 90º connectors. This will allow you to leave the hoses permanently attached to the tractor and loader. You can disconnect the quick connects at the loader support uprights and the loader can still be removed from the tractor.
Plan your hoses well and then order fittings and hose from Surplus Center or some other suitable source. There is a big difference in prices for the same fittings, depending on where you buy them. Shop around.
Good luck. I think you will like your grapple. I sure do like mine.
)</font>
Yes, it is feasible and works quite well. The diverter valve is a more elegant solution, but also much more involved than the rear remote that you already have installed.
Here is what I'd suggest:
1. Measure the distance you will need for hoses. Use rope or some other suitable line to run a mock-up hose from the rear remotes so you will have an accurate measurement of the hoses you will need. For the hoses from the front loader crossmember to the grapple, you will probably need at least 6' to allow the grapple to curl. Depending on grapple design, you may need 7' for this.
2. Use 1/4", 4000 psi hose. The smaller the hose, the more fine control you will have. This is important with something like a grapple. The small hose will have less ballooning and make your grapple hold better once you get a grip on something. You will also need to install a single orifice (0.030") in one line.
3. You will need three hose segments in each line.
- rear remote to loader support upright
- loader upright to front crossmember
- front crossmember to grapple cylinder.
4. At each end of the hose segments you need quick connects and you also will need several 90º connectors. This will allow you to leave the hoses permanently attached to the tractor and loader. You can disconnect the quick connects at the loader support uprights and the loader can still be removed from the tractor.
Plan your hoses well and then order fittings and hose from Surplus Center or some other suitable source. There is a big difference in prices for the same fittings, depending on where you buy them. Shop around.
Good luck. I think you will like your grapple. I sure do like mine.
Gumby6
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2005
- Messages
- 79
- Location
- Western NC
- Tractor
- NH TC30/HST/Filled R4/RR/3rd Function to FEL
Hey Jim,
Can you explain the need for the single (0.030") orifice in the hydraulic line for this function.
Reduction of flow for finer adjustments?
Gary
Can you explain the need for the single (0.030") orifice in the hydraulic line for this function.
Reduction of flow for finer adjustments?
Gary
deerhunterf350
Gold Member
Correct the small orifice will restrict / slow the Hydraulic flow. To allow a gentle Open/Close function , rather than a Rapid Open / Close.
jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 20,387
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Can you explain the need for the single (0.030") orifice in the hydraulic line for this function.
Reduction of flow for finer adjustments?)</font>
Gary, the orifice is to allow controlled (slow) flow and fine adjustments as Dan said. One additional thing is to make sure the orifice is placed inline somewhere close to a 90º connection or other spot where the jet of fluid coming out will not hit the inside walls of the hose. I've been told by a reliable source that the jet of fluid is so strong that over time it will cut the hose from the inside out. This is probably in applications with constant use and adjustments, but it is something to consider when installing the orifice. If it's jet spray hits a metal fitting, there should be no cutting. It does make sense. A jet of 2500 psi fluid through a tiny orifice will surely have power to cut. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Reduction of flow for finer adjustments?)</font>
Gary, the orifice is to allow controlled (slow) flow and fine adjustments as Dan said. One additional thing is to make sure the orifice is placed inline somewhere close to a 90º connection or other spot where the jet of fluid coming out will not hit the inside walls of the hose. I've been told by a reliable source that the jet of fluid is so strong that over time it will cut the hose from the inside out. This is probably in applications with constant use and adjustments, but it is something to consider when installing the orifice. If it's jet spray hits a metal fitting, there should be no cutting. It does make sense. A jet of 2500 psi fluid through a tiny orifice will surely have power to cut. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Osconda
Silver Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2005
- Messages
- 184
- Tractor
- New Holland TC55DA, delivered 05/25/2005
Vinto,
I liked Jinman's suggestions about how to connect the hoses. I myself had a single long hose made to connect to the rear remote to the grapple hose. Fortunatley I don't remove my loader very often but when I do I have to cut my tie-wraps that keep the hoses in place. Don't know if it's normal for the hoses to be provided when a grapple is bought new, but mine came with short hoses.
Anyway, when getting threaded fittings on the hoses, be sure you get the right kind of threads that will match the threads on the quick couplers you buy. Some quick couplers are designed for high flow applications so don't spend the extra money for those.
One little piece of advice... If you make each hose a little longer than you need, you can just have the end repaired if/when it fails instead of having to have another complete hose made. You should also consider buying an extra hose for the last link to the grapple, because this one will likely be the first to fail. Typicaly, the cost of going after another one will cost you more than the hose itself.
I liked Jinman's suggestions about how to connect the hoses. I myself had a single long hose made to connect to the rear remote to the grapple hose. Fortunatley I don't remove my loader very often but when I do I have to cut my tie-wraps that keep the hoses in place. Don't know if it's normal for the hoses to be provided when a grapple is bought new, but mine came with short hoses.
Anyway, when getting threaded fittings on the hoses, be sure you get the right kind of threads that will match the threads on the quick couplers you buy. Some quick couplers are designed for high flow applications so don't spend the extra money for those.
One little piece of advice... If you make each hose a little longer than you need, you can just have the end repaired if/when it fails instead of having to have another complete hose made. You should also consider buying an extra hose for the last link to the grapple, because this one will likely be the first to fail. Typicaly, the cost of going after another one will cost you more than the hose itself.