Hydraulic hose diameter

[mhalla]

<font color="green">This question is for the hydraulic experts out there.

I will be attaching a 5 foot front blade to the loader arms on my John Deere 2210. The blade includes an angling cylinder. I have successfully operated the cylinder by driving my tractor up alongside the blade and plugging the blade's short hoses into my joystick's bucket curl quick connections.

In order to operate the blade's angling cylinder at the front of my tractor I need to pick up a couple of ten foot hoses and wonder if I need to purchase 3/8" hose or will a smaller diameter 1/4" hose work for my application?

The 3/8" pre-made hoses at my local farm store come with 3/8" NPT male threads which means if I buy them I need to buy 3/8" to 1/4" adapters in order to use the 1/4" quick connect couplers I already have.

I figure it would cost less to buy 1/4" diameter hose with 1/4" male NPT ends that will mate with my couplers.

I guess my question involves loss of GMP flow in smaller diameter hoses. Will the smaller diameter hose be fine over a ten foot distance or should I get the larger hose and adapters?

Mike
</font>

 

[ronjhall]

You should be able to use 1/4" on your 2210. Try to find 2 wire if you can. They are more durable. In 1/4" my local TSC stocks single wire.

 

[MadReferee]

I agree. Two-wire 1/4" hoses for the work ports will be sufficient for your application. Since they flow less, you will have some additional feathering control over the cylinder movement.

 

[kennyd]

I use 1/4" on mine, that is all you need. The flow rate (GPM) would be more of a concern if you were running a motor, but but not 2 cylinder's.

Are you installing a diverter valve?

 

[mhalla]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Are you installing a diverter valve?)</font>

<font color="green">kennyd,

A diverter valve would be a good addition to my project. I can see how it would fit even better with my next project which is a hydraulic top link for my 3-pt hitch.

Been pricing both manual and electrically operated diverter valves and will probably go without a diverter valve for now and put up with unplugging/replugging hoses with just the front blade angling cylinder as the primary need to do so.

Once I have the FEL lift arms at the correct bucket curl angle for the blade I hope to be able to switch the hoses and not fool with them again until it is time to take the blade off and replace it with the bucket.

Do you know if they make electrically operated diverter valves that don't require a solenoid to be activated the whole time you have diverted flow to one set of connections? I'd prefer an arrangement with a double throw momentary contact switch. Of course then I have to remember which hydraulic device is currently the active one without the physical position of a switch to look at.

Mike </font>

 

[mhalla]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Try to find 2 wire if you can. )</font>

<font color="green">Ron, is there some trick to know if a hydraulic hose is one or two wire? Most of the hydraulic hoses I have seen prepackaged at my local and other nearby farm stores are not labeled with much information other than diameter and length.

Mike </font>

 

[ronjhall]

I should say on outside of hose.
Here is a site that others have used for hose. Click Here
You can order the hose you want with correct fittings.
If you are using TSC you will have to ask.
In another thread someone suggest NAPA Auto Parts.

 

[kennyd]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( Are you installing a diverter valve?)</font>

<font color="green">kennyd,

A diverter valve would be a good addition to my project. I can see how it would fit even better with my next project which is a hydraulic top link for my 3-pt hitch.

Been pricing both manual and electrically operated diverter valves and will probably go without a diverter valve for now and put up with unplugging/replugging hoses with just the front blade angling cylinder as the primary need to do so.

<font color="black"> I was going to do that at first, but my cylinders leak to much. Also, you may run into a problem unhooking and rehooking lines that are under pressure, if you go to relive pressure, than the setting is lost.</font>

Once I have the FEL lift arms at the correct bucket curl angle for the blade I hope to be able to switch the hoses and not fool with them again until it is time to take the blade off and replace it with the bucket.

<font color="black"> I experimented with that idea early on, see comments above </font>

Do you know if they make electrically operated diverter valves that don't require a solenoid to be activated the whole time you have diverted flow to one set of connections? I'd prefer an arrangement with a double throw momentary contact switch. Of course then I have to remember which hydraulic device is currently the active one without the physical position of a switch to look at.

<font color="black"> No, I don't think there is one like that, and I can't see the benefit of that setup. The regular switch work just fine.</font>

Mike </font> )</font>