Hydraulic Leak from Under Stearing wheel 4110

[Carol K]

Hi forgive me if I don't explain this well being female, but I have a leak on my 4110 that is coming from one of the hydraulic hose under the stearing wheel column. It has been snugged but still leaks, problem is, how do I get that part off? It won't turn as it hits the line below, I can get the line disconnected, but then the part a small elbow and nut hits the elbow and hose below it? I'm stumped and the book has no help in it. The machine has about 350 hours on it.
Hope someone can help, I don't want to take apart anything I shouldn't, smile!

Thanks
Carol

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

You have to use a crowsfoot wrench and remove the fitting below it also. It isn't easy.

 

[skipmarcy]

I'm not sure if yours is exactly like my older model but probably is very similar if not identical. I've had mine disconnected a few times but has been about 6 years since I have so I can't be as precise in instructions as I would if I had done it recently. First thing would be to draw a small diagram out to show which hose goes where on the valve and mark the hoses with some masking tape or something. Once you've got them marked you need to disconnect the first hose that's easiest to get to with your wrenches. Once this hose (whichever one it happens to be) is removed, another hose should be accessible with your wrenches fairly easy - disconnect it next. Do this until you reach the one hose giving you the problem. If I remember correctly I didn't have to use a crowfoot, I was able to use typical open end wrenches or might have used one of my flare-nut wrenches. Once you get a hose removed from the fitting in the valve, you can use a regular 3/8" drive socket to tighten the fitting in the valve body. When you go to reinstall the hose, be sure to hold the fitting with another wrench as best you can while you tighten the hose to it. You'll just have to reverse your removal order on the hoses. Good luck with it - it's just tedious, not terribly difficult - you can do it.

 

[Carol K]

Thanks guys, I'll have to get a crowfoot wrench tomorrow, it's either a 21 or 22, not sure which. Is it easier to go in from the engine side or the stearing wheel side? Which side would anyone recommend?

Carol

 

[skipmarcy]

It should all be on the operator side of the firewall - not the engine side. If you'll take the 4 screws holding the dash panel out, the panel will slip outwards so you can disconnect the wiring connectors and completely remove the dash, then you'll be able to see the valve assembly on the steering shaft and hoses. To remove the rest of the dash cowling you remove the screws holding it to the firewall from the engine side of the firewall. You'll also have to remove the upper & lower plastic housings on the steering column to get enough room to remove the dash cowling, and of course tilt your steering column down as far as it goes.

 

[AchingBack]

When removing screws, I like to have a powerful magnet on the job to help keep them from disappearing into the night. I have a magnet from an old stereo speaker, attached to a piece of rope. I also use it to drag through an area I may have dropped something while working on a piece of equipment on a graveled surface.

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

Sorry I was so short with my answer, earlier, but I have been fighting with a kidney stone for past week and up until this morning, the kidney stone has been winning. Anyhow, I would get a new 45 degree fitting before you tear it apart. I had only once that I have had this problem and I have replaced the Oring seal on the fitting 3 times. Each time the leak would be fixed for a few months and then start to leak again. The Orings would seem to be pinched on the inside. A new fitting which I am going to install as soon as I am able (hopefully this week) should finally solve the problem for good. I hope. Good luck with yours.

 

[Carol K]

Well here is the update, they ended up going in from the engine side, no one in my town has the right size crow foot, think I said needed a 22 but it may be a 23. I am going to order one online. Due to space limits and the tools we had we went in from the engine side.
When we looked at the one that was leaking, there was nothing wrong with the O ring that we could see. Sooooo we put it all back together and low and behold, no leak-YET!
I'm happy but I think you are right, have the part on hand and the O ring just incase. Like Lawalls said It may leak again in a month.
Thank you all so much for your advice, awesome forum especially for a novice tractor owner and being a gal, well Older Gal!

Carol