hydraulic problems new holland 3010
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DieselMonk
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Welcome to TBN!!!
You don't give much to make a good picture. Need more details. How about this: Check for enough hydraulic fluid, pinched or kinked hydraulic lines and change the hydraulic filter for starters.
Max
You don't give much to make a good picture. Need more details. How about this: Check for enough hydraulic fluid, pinched or kinked hydraulic lines and change the hydraulic filter for starters.
Max
DieselMonk
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Either the pump itself is bad, something failed inside the pump, worn vavles, something went through the pump and ruined it or a hydraulic line is clogged. I think you have to open a few things up and check or get it checked at the dealer. I also heared something about a screen that is at the hydraulic pump that can get dirty. Maybe others have another idea. Best of luck!
Max
Max
jinman
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Here's my guess, but it's only a guess. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
I think your open-center system is not working. I believe if you could measure the pressure at the pump, you'd see high pressure at the pump outlet instead of the lower pressure that is normal when you are not using either the 3PH or FEL. In other words, I think you have a full or partial blockage when the system should be open.
I'd go right to the last thing I worked on and check for a problem. That would be the FEL joystick controls/valves. I think your joystick has something that is not allowing the system to go to open center when the joystick is centered. That makes your pump work all the time and lift the relief valve. Probably not only the pump is getting hot, but also the output pressure line from the pump.
If you want to check for the FEL being the culprit, just run the FEL bucket curl up and down for a minute or so continuously to see if the pump cools off. If it does, that means the restriction is at the neutral position (maybe a spool valve reversed or something).
Since your 3PH seems to be weak, it indicates that the problem is before it. On my tractor the diverter valve for fluid supply to the FEL is before the 3PH. If the FEL is the source of the problem, that would be consistent with your symptoms.
Again, just a guess, but please don't run your tractor long with the pump smoking. When the hydraulic fluid gets over 250ºF, bad things start to happen very quickly. The first is seals start to go because of excessive heat, and then it's all downhill from there. If by chance your pump is sucking air and cavitating, it may already be toast from lack of internal lubrication and cooling. It's imperative that you find the problem with the minimum amount of run time or get the tractor to a shop where they can test and troubleshoot. I'd hate to see your pump self-destruct. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I think your open-center system is not working. I believe if you could measure the pressure at the pump, you'd see high pressure at the pump outlet instead of the lower pressure that is normal when you are not using either the 3PH or FEL. In other words, I think you have a full or partial blockage when the system should be open.
I'd go right to the last thing I worked on and check for a problem. That would be the FEL joystick controls/valves. I think your joystick has something that is not allowing the system to go to open center when the joystick is centered. That makes your pump work all the time and lift the relief valve. Probably not only the pump is getting hot, but also the output pressure line from the pump.
If you want to check for the FEL being the culprit, just run the FEL bucket curl up and down for a minute or so continuously to see if the pump cools off. If it does, that means the restriction is at the neutral position (maybe a spool valve reversed or something).
Since your 3PH seems to be weak, it indicates that the problem is before it. On my tractor the diverter valve for fluid supply to the FEL is before the 3PH. If the FEL is the source of the problem, that would be consistent with your symptoms.
Again, just a guess, but please don't run your tractor long with the pump smoking. When the hydraulic fluid gets over 250ºF, bad things start to happen very quickly. The first is seals start to go because of excessive heat, and then it's all downhill from there. If by chance your pump is sucking air and cavitating, it may already be toast from lack of internal lubrication and cooling. It's imperative that you find the problem with the minimum amount of run time or get the tractor to a shop where they can test and troubleshoot. I'd hate to see your pump self-destruct. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
JerryG
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The first thing to do is to replace the filter again. It could have collapsed. Or at least take it off and look in it. Then check the suction screen. It may be plugged or collapsed also.
jinman
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The first thing to do is to replace the filter again. It could have collapsed. Or at least take it off and look in it. )</font>
Jerry, I think the filter is a possibility, but the reason I didn't suggest that is that the gent said his FEL worked normally. If the filter or a suction screen was clogged, I'd think the FEL and the 3PH would show signs of being underpowered.
Checking the filter is easy enough to do and sure would not hurt anything. I just would not be surprised to find nothing wrong with the filter. What do you think? Am I making sense? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Jerry, I think the filter is a possibility, but the reason I didn't suggest that is that the gent said his FEL worked normally. If the filter or a suction screen was clogged, I'd think the FEL and the 3PH would show signs of being underpowered.
Checking the filter is easy enough to do and sure would not hurt anything. I just would not be surprised to find nothing wrong with the filter. What do you think? Am I making sense? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
DieselMonk
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Kinda makes sense, Jim. I just wanted to ask if the problem he has was after the installation of the rebuilt joystick or before that. Sure I would look at the joystick first, then the filter than that screen. I know what you mean as you can "warm up" the hydraulic by using the FEL curling up the bucket or something. The only thing I am not getting on your version is why would the FEL work correctly?
Max
Max
jinman
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The only thing I am not getting on your version is why would the FEL work correctly? )</font>
I'm guessing that the problem is showing itself as a partial blockage when the joystick is centered. It should be open center at that time. If the FEL seems to work normally, that would indicate that the FEL control valves were at least partially functioning. I just think there is a possibility that on the rebuild of the joystick, something was reinstalled wrong or adjusted wrong so the pump is continuously under load instead of pumping with very little backpressure like it should in open center.
If the pump is continually under pressure, then the pressure relief valve is opening and that would make the 3PH seem to have less power. That would account for having to rev the engine to get a round bale picked up.
So to recap...
With the joystick centered, the pump heats up and smokes. I want him to cycle the joystick curl so the pump will cool down. See my logic? The pump will actually work a lot less when it's driving an empty bucket in curl that it would working against a blockage caused by the joystick not working properly. Therefore, the pump should cool down as the joystick is moved from left to right continuously over about a minute. When the joystick is again released to center and the circuit malfunctions, that's when the pump will get hot.
Oh... and I know for myself that when something quits working that worked before and I've be messin' with it. It's probably that I put something back together wrong. So I just think the joystick is suspect. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
I'm guessing that the problem is showing itself as a partial blockage when the joystick is centered. It should be open center at that time. If the FEL seems to work normally, that would indicate that the FEL control valves were at least partially functioning. I just think there is a possibility that on the rebuild of the joystick, something was reinstalled wrong or adjusted wrong so the pump is continuously under load instead of pumping with very little backpressure like it should in open center.
If the pump is continually under pressure, then the pressure relief valve is opening and that would make the 3PH seem to have less power. That would account for having to rev the engine to get a round bale picked up.
So to recap...
With the joystick centered, the pump heats up and smokes. I want him to cycle the joystick curl so the pump will cool down. See my logic? The pump will actually work a lot less when it's driving an empty bucket in curl that it would working against a blockage caused by the joystick not working properly. Therefore, the pump should cool down as the joystick is moved from left to right continuously over about a minute. When the joystick is again released to center and the circuit malfunctions, that's when the pump will get hot.
Oh... and I know for myself that when something quits working that worked before and I've be messin' with it. It's probably that I put something back together wrong. So I just think the joystick is suspect. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
DieselMonk
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I see your point now and know which direction you are going, Jinman. Makes sense too... I never had to take my joystic apart yet. Didn't know that you actually could install lets say a valve wrong way... but everything is possible, I guess. Nice explaining on your part!
Max
Max
