Hydraulic rear blade and sitrex finish mower and tiller

[mikect05]

Hi, I have decided to buy a new LS G3038h tractor and would like to get a finish mower, tiller, and a rear hydraulic blade. My dealer has a sitrex finish mower, and tiller, but cannot get me the type of rear blade that I want.
Couple questions, does anyone have experience with Sitrex?
What size tiller should I get for this size tractor?
Any recommendations for a rear hydraulic blade, and what size should I get for this tractor, I would like something for moving earth, putting in small ditches and for snow removal.
Thanks!!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

When you say hydraulic rear blade, do you want hydraulic angle, or are you looking for hydraulic angle, offset and tilt?:confused3: Land Pride or an equal would be the first place that I would look. An RB3784 if you only want hydraulic angling or an RBT3584 if you want hydraulic everything.
Whatever blade you get, be sure to get skid shoes to go with it. They will really help out with the ease of use of the blade. Be sure to have the dealer add all the rear remotes that you can get, you will need them.
I hope to get an RBT3584 for my 3215 HST in the future. :drool: I currently have an RBT45108 for my 75hp tractor.

 

[mikect05]

When you say hydraulic rear blade, do you want hydraulic angle, or are you looking for hydraulic angle, offset and tilt?:confused3: Land Pride or an equal would be the first place that I would look. An RB3784 if you only want hydraulic angling or an RBT3584 if you want hydraulic everything.
Whatever blade you get, be sure to get skid shoes to go with it. They will really help out with the ease of use of the blade. Be sure to have the dealer add all the rear remotes that you can get, you will need them.
I hope to get an RBT3584 for my 3215 HST in the future. :drool: I currently have an RBT45108 for my 75hp tractor.

Thanks Brian, I appreciate your quick reply and input. I would like to have hydraulic tilt and angling the offset can be manual. My dealer was going to add a pair of rear remotes, should I have him add more you think?
So do you think the 38 hp tractor can handle the RBT3584 okay? What is an estimate of it's cost?
Another question: What is the best technique for using the blade for snow? I was thinking that if I could turn the blade around and push the snow in reverse, that might be the way to go about it, but it seems from what I see online that you would pull the snow just as you would dirt? Would this work when we get 2'+ of snow? Perhaps use the FEL to remove the top layer of snow and the blade in back to finish?

 

[FatTire]

Thanks Brian, I appreciate your quick reply and input. I would like to have hydraulic tilt and angling the offset can be manual. My dealer was going to add a pair of rear remotes, should I have him add more you think?
So do you think the 38 hp tractor can handle the RBT3584 okay? What is an estimate of it's cost?
Another question: What is the best technique for using the blade for snow? I was thinking that if I could turn the blade around and push the snow in reverse, that might be the way to go about it, but it seems from what I see online that you would pull the snow just as you would dirt? Would this work when we get 2'+ of snow? Perhaps use the FEL to remove the top layer of snow and the blade in back to finish?

I have the RBT3584 set up as you are thinking on a 50 hp tractor -- hyd tilt & angle, manual offset. This is a good set up and the RBT35 series is well made. We had a UPS truck driver ram into one (long story) and it messed up his truck but only paint damage to the blade. (The stand rod is sorta flimsy, that is my only complaint.) I do change the offset occasionally, but not nearly as often as either tilt or angle. FYI- It is very difficult to change offset with 1 person if on a slope because of the weight of the blade and frame. I have 2 rear remotes, but I also have a SSQA V-plow, so now I wish I had a 3rd remote so I could run the plow and the rear blade with everything hooked up. I highly recommend getting 3 remotes -- its just easier to do it when you order the tractor. I do not use the rear blade for deep snow, but if we get too much packed snow built up I use the rear blade to scrape it down. (The built up snow happens when we get a few light snows in a row that are not worth plowing.) Works great for scraping, especially in late winter / early spring we don't want very much snow on the driveway when mud season is starting. My guess is that for snow deeper than about 8-12 inches you are gonna want a front blade or a blower.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks Brian, I appreciate your quick reply and input. I would like to have hydraulic tilt and angling the offset can be manual. My dealer was going to add a pair of rear remotes, should I have him add more you think?
So do you think the 38 hp tractor can handle the RBT3584 okay? What is an estimate of it's cost?
Another question: What is the best technique for using the blade for snow? I was thinking that if I could turn the blade around and push the snow in reverse, that might be the way to go about it, but it seems from what I see online that you would pull the snow just as you would dirt? Would this work when we get 2'+ of snow? Perhaps use the FEL to remove the top layer of snow and the blade in back to finish?

Load your tires, all 4 of them and your tractor will handle the RBT3584 without problems. Get both of the OEM rear remotes. You might want to check on the cost of an R3039. By the time you start adding remotes and other things, you might as well be getting an R series, has the remotes std and a suspension seat and???

As far as snow, I do not plow snow too often here in Southern California, but I doubt than any of the rear blades are going to deal with 2' of snow very well. If you actually get 2' at a time very often, I would be thinking snow blower.

A lot of people put the blade in reverse, but pull it forward. Then they don't worry about digging into the ground. But if you use your hitch to hold the blade up and not actually have it on the ground, and have the skid shoes, I would think that the blade would work much better in it's normal positioning as if you were working with dirt.

I believe that it is around $2000 without any hydraulics. By the way you can get after market hydraulics a lot cheaper than the LP hydraulics and have better hydraulics when you are done. You can actually purchase the blade with no adjusters and get the cost down under 2k and then just get all the hydraulics separately. Even if you would have to plug and unplug each cylinder when you wanted to offset or tilt, it would still be easier than manually adjusting.

You can always add diverters and get as many sets of rear remotes that you need. My 3215 has one OEM rear remote, but I have a total of 4 sets on the rear to control whatever needs controlling.

 

[mikect05]

Lmao at the UPS guy....

As for the R3039, there are none anywhere near me to be had as they are being phased out in favor of the tier 4 emissions. I guess my dealer just got an R3039 for somebody transferred from Maryland and it had some hours on it, but whatever is left is going quick. I think if I bought the G3038 even months ago I could have gotten a better deal on it but the prices are rising as the newer versions are going to be more expensive and people would rather have the tier 3 version so their prices are getting driven up. It seems like this on other brands as well, I have actually had a few dealers of different brands all say the same thing that these are in higher demand and will actually be worth more.

Pretty bummed that I cannot use the blade for heavy snow! Yes it seems where we are in CT we get dumped on with several storms a year, the Low pressure center hits the Atlantic and rapidly intensifies and pulls a lot of moisture off the ocean. Usually there is rain/mix along the shore and inland a bit we get a lot of snow.
I was hoping to kill two birds with one stone and the snow removal could justify my purchase of a blade, otherwise I have 9 acres that I will be working on, but in the long run I will run out of work for it. Maybe I would be better off with a box blade and a snow plow for the money.
I know nothing about hydraulics, I have a couple buddies who are mechanics, so I guess I will become their student. The dealer said a pair of remotes cost $350 for parts and he will do the labor for free, maybe I should get two pairs for that deal? I am definitely going to see if I can get the loaded tires thrown in to seal the deal!
Thanks for all your input!!

 

[FatTire]

The UPS guy actually said, "If that blade wasn't there I would have been fine." He's a nice guy, but what could I say? I just sorta stared at him. In any case get two remotes or more.