Hydraulic Side Link sizing & other questions

[TheSpoon]

I've recently added a hydraulic top link to my LS XR4046H. Love it, even though I haven't quite got the hose placement/configuration correct, or the cylinder on the correct direction either as a matter of fact, as I've managed to put a couple gouges in my top-link bracket because the retracted cylinder to pin depth is too shallow on the fixed end and hits the bracket when the link is fully raised. I also want to move the location of the rear remotes somewhere so I don't have to keep looking over my shoulder when raising the 3pt to watch for interference. With all that aside...

What does one use to figure out the size of the link needed (both in length and bore/rod dia)? I get (I believe) that the bore/rod is all about the push/pull force you want. So for my 4046, which has a rear lift of 2,756 lbs am I really only looking at needing a 1.5" bore with 1" rod @3000psi which gets me 2945lbs pull (per Baum Hydraulics)?

What about length? Here is the lift rod diagram for the 3pt. I've measured the adjustable lift rod at about 16" pin to pin (fully collapsed), however, should I have actually measured from the joint pin (#18 in the picture) to the lower link arm? And then, when installing the cylinder, hook it directly to the lift arm? In either case, how do I figure out how long of a retracted length/stroke I would need/want? Do I go with a shorter cylinder, say 12" and hope I can find with a long(er) stroke?

I've spent the last couple days reading on all of 3RRL's threads and have gotten insanely jealous of the mods/customization he's done... and I have the itch, though none of the tools to do those things.

A preemptive "thanks for the help".

**EDIT** I was going to also ask questions about getting a valve to control the T&T without using the 2 rear remotes so I could place the connections better/differently, but the post got long enough (and I haven't done enough reading to know if it's already been answered or not) so I'll wait.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Unless you are going to be using draft control, just use the top pin location. That should take care you the binding issue.

Nothing wrong with the factory outlet location, your hoses are long. You need shorter hoses.

Use a 2" dia cylinder for your side link, that way it will match your top link. Depending on how you want to have the side link work, to get an equal amount of tilt angle to each side, you need a 4" stroke cylinder. If you want to have it so that the implement is level with the cylinder fully retracted, then you can use a 6" stroke cylinder. I prefer and sell my units with the 4" stroke unit.

Get a cross tube type cylinder, it will be easier for you to use. You need to use the lower pin location, you will have BIG PROBLEMS if you go directly to the lift arm.

Get a set of flow restrictors, it will make life much better when using the side link.

Good luck

 

[lostcreekranch]

And move your right manual adjustable link over to the left side to give even more easy adjustment in the future.

.

 

[Sandy Runyon]

Unless you are going to be using draft control, just use the top pin location. That should take care you the binding issue.

Nothing wrong with the factory outlet location, your hoses are long. You need shorter hoses.

Use a 2" dia cylinder for your side link, that way it will match your top link. Depending on how you want to have the side link work, to get an equal amount of tilt angle to each side, you need a 4" stroke cylinder. If you want to have it so that the implement is level with the cylinder fully retracted, then you can use a 6" stroke cylinder. I prefer and sell my units with the 4" stroke unit.

Get a cross tube type cylinder, it will be easier for you to use. You need to use the lower pin location, you will have BIG PROBLEMS if you go directly to the lift arm.

Get a set of flow restrictors, it will make life much better when using the side link.

Good luck

I’m also looking at a hydraulic side link for an XR4145. Why do you say “big problems” if one doesn’t use the lower pin location. Not arguing, just wondering. I can’t seem to find a cylinder that short.

 

[Cycledude]

I’m also looking at a hydraulic side link for an XR4145. Why do you say “big problems” if one doesn’t use the lower pin location. Not arguing, just wondering. I can’t seem to find a cylinder that short.

Could be wrong but I believe at the beginning he was referring to the top link not the side link, they are two very different set ups .

My tractor has 3 hole choices for the top link cylinder, at first I was using the top hole but noticed wear marks on one side of the bracket so moved it to the middle hole with so far no new noticeable bracket wear, now that Rick has mentioned it I might try moving it to the bottom hole just to see if anything changes.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I’m also looking at a hydraulic side link for an XR4145. Why do you say “big problems” if one doesn’t use the lower pin location. Not arguing, just wondering. I can’t seem to find a cylinder that short.

The side link has to be able to pivot front-back and left-right. If you connect directly to the lift arm, you have to use a clevis. Using a clevis and connecting to the lift arm you have just eliminated the left right movement and something will end up breaking.

Look at the factory link, it has sort of a stretched U-joint at the top allowing for the movement described. There is a reason they built it how they build it.

A 4" stroke cylinder should be a relatively easy cylinder to find.

Also, if you have a 2020 or newer tractor, there is a chance that your side link is actually different than what was previously pictured in this thread. It might need to be like the unit pictured below.
But you still need the 4" stroke cylinder and connect to the lower connection-pivot point at the top.

 

[Sandy Runyon]

Thanks, Brian. Understood