Hydraulic tank

   / Hydraulic tank #1  

Marshhoe

New member
Joined
Dec 31, 2014
Messages
19
Location
Sulphur,la
Tractor
ASVRC100
I just bought me a RC 100 with mulcher, has anybody tried
To convert left fender to tank? Should hold 26 gal. Same as
Fuel? The math don't add up. 38gpm on a 20 gal tank! No
Time to do anything but go again!
 
   / Hydraulic tank #2  
No experience with that machine, but it probably has a big oil cooler. Are you having issues? Most skid loader and construction equipment have more flow than oil capacity.
 
   / Hydraulic tank
  • Thread Starter
#3  
QUOTE=Marshhoe;3996445]I just bought me a RC 100 with mulcher, has anybody tried
To convert left fender to tank? Should hold 26 gal. Same as
Fuel? The math don't add up. 38gpm on a 20 gal tank! No
Time to do anything but go again![/QUOTE]
 
   / Hydraulic tank
  • Thread Starter
#4  
No not yet, but have seen posts that it is a issue.
Yes it does have a big cooler. The owner manual
Calls for oil to changed at 500 hrs. That got me
Looking at things.
 
   / Hydraulic tank
  • Thread Starter
#5  
No not yet, but have seen posts that it is a issue.
Yes it does have a big cooler. The owner manual
Calls for oil to changed at 500 hrs. That got me
Looking at things.

After looking at left side it's part of the right side fuel tank
Theirs a cross pipe from one to other. Great back to square
One. Any body got ideas on where to put a 20 to 30 gal. Hyro
Tank?
 
   / Hydraulic tank #6  
Adding extra gallons of oil only adds mass, which only lengthens the time it takes to overheat. And I have done the calculations for heat loss on painted steel reservoirs and it isn't very good, especially if one side is being heated by the engine!

You really only have three basic options:
1) reduce the input power: most likely not a viable option. ;)
2) reduce the flow losses in the system: quickest bang-for-the-buck is probably the quick couplers (if you give us manufacturer, part number, and flow someone can probably find the pressure drop), review and possibly increase hose sizes, review oil viscosity being used and possibly replace with lighter-weight grade (follow recommendations in manual), more difficult but effective is replacing 90° fittings with curved hose end fittings or short pieces of tubing.
3) or increase the cooling: (Looking at an online parts diagram it appears the radiator and oil cooler are side-by-side with a pusher fan. The hyd cooler doesn't look very big. Pushers generally move less air than suckers, but in this case you don't want to pull in the crud in the air and plug the radiator.) Check that the shroud is well sealed against the radiator, the bristle brush is around the fan opening and just touching the fan, and the fins aren't all bent over due to a high pressure sprayer. :rolleyes: There also appears to be a pressure bypass in the lower hydraulic cooler header - if it is leaking hot oil will bypass the cooler. I could recommend some tweaks to the shroud, but they won't be worth the effort unless you are just shy of having enough cooling.

If you still need more cooling the best option is a remote mounted secondary hydraulic cooler. The best location would be in series after the original. Another possibility is in the return line just after the lift arms, but the back pressure will be higher and should be checked when cold to make sure it won't blow up the cooler. Use a thermally switched fan to allow the oil to heat up and keep the fin spacing on the large side to help prevent plugging. AKG makes some killer HD units with fans and easy to install that I can vouch for, but they are on the pricey side.

ISZ
 

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