3-Point Hitch Hydraulic Top/Lift link 3910

[jacain]

Hope everyone had an awesome Christmas! I am looking to outfit my 3910 with cylinders on the top and lift link like the 445/545's have. Was wondering if anyone recommend a brand/vendor/model? Thanks in advance for any help/info!

Justin

 

[ovrszd]

I don't know of any that came with that equipment from the factory, but I'm not very worldly.

I bought a top link cylinder for my 3910 from Surplus Center.

I built the top link and side link for my 9540.

Pretty easy to come up with a top link. Bit harder to come up with a side link. You'll have to find someone to build you one.

 

[jacain]

Thanks Richard! Like you said, the top link should be easy. I was thinking of just using the side link from the skip loaders. The 3 point hitch is essentially the same. Grabbed this pic from another thread.

 

[jacain]

Need to get some dimensions, but looks like I should be able to come up with something.

Hydraulic Side Link Cylinder---2014

 

[FTG-05]

Everything I know about TNT I learned from LD1.

 

[LD1]

I guess the obvious question is do you have remotes? And how many? And do any of your implements use remotes that would require you to constantly be swapping?

I bought cylinders and made my own. I use the toplink all the time. ITs nice to have adjustment at the fingertips. To hike up the tail of the bushhog or rear blade to ease trailer loading and unloading, and adjusting the "pitch" of the hitch when I have the trailer mover on. I woudnt trade my toplink for anything. In fact the ONLY time it has been off the machine was when the post hole digger is on (which dont use a topink).

However.....depending on use.....are you SURE you need a side link? I made one. But hardly use it on the tractor. All cylinders will eventually creep overtime with a load on them. How much/how fast depends on the quality of the cylinder and valve. And 99% of what I do does NOT require constant side link adjustment. Once set, its done. I dont want to be mowing for 8 hours and have to periodically keep adjusting the sidelink to get a level cut. It doesnt take much creep at all to make a BIG difference on an 8' mower. Same with plowing with the 3-14 plow. Dont want to have to re-adjust because things moved.

And with a rear blade that has hydraulic tilt already.....I just dont see the need for the sidelink to also be hydraulic.

If you have a welder and some fab skills, have you considered making your own? Because that vastly increases you brand/preference of cylinder selection. A link with pics/details of mine is in my signature.

I have no experience with whats out there and what qualities are. But there is a member/advertiser here that seems to get some pretty darn good reviews for his TNT setup. His website Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

 

[DK35vince]

However.....depending on use.....are you SURE you need a side link? I made one. But hardly use it on the tractor. All cylinders will eventually creep overtime with a load on them. How much/how fast depends on the quality of the cylinder and valve. And 99% of what I do does NOT require constant side link adjustment. Once set, its done. I dont want to be mowing for 8 hours and have to periodically keep adjusting the sidelink to get a level cut. It doesnt take much creep at all to make a BIG difference on an 8' mower. Same with plowing with the 3-14 plow. Dont want to have to re-adjust because things moved.

That's why I replaced my first set of top/tilt cylinders to top/tilt cylinders that have piloted check valves 18 years ago.
Completely eliminated that problem.
They stay where I put them.

 

[LD1]

That's why I replaced my first set of top/tilt cylinders to top/tilt cylinders that have piloted check valves 18 years ago.
Completely eliminated that problem.
They stay where I put them.

Thats an option for some. Just know that you cannot float with check valves

 

[FTG-05]

That's why I replaced my first set of top/tilt cylinders to top/tilt cylinders that have piloted check valves 18 years ago.
Completely eliminated that problem.
They stay where I put them.

I don't need a check valve top link (I want to retain the ability to float plus the top link doesn't leak down/move once set) but I could use one for my side link. What did you use? Is there something that could be added to an existing cylinder?

Thanks,

 

[ovrszd]

I don't need a check valve top link (I want to retain the ability to float plus the top link doesn't leak down/move once set) but I could use one for my side link. What did you use? Is there something that could be added to an existing cylinder?

Thanks,

Google "double pilot check valve". You can buy one for around $75. Then you have to strap it to the barrel of your existing cylinder and plumb it. Probably have $125 in it when done.

Your existing hoses will connect to the valve body. Short hoses built to connect the valve body fittings to your cylinder.