Hydraulic top link and rear remote

[blucoondawg]

I want to get a hydraulic top link as I am looking at getting a box blade, where are good places to get these from and how much does the whole set up usually run? What do I need besides the top link and the hoses? I have a Kioti DK50SE, I have one rear remote, has anyone bought the parts to add an additional remote and done it themselves? I may eventually get a tilt cylinder as well and would like the second remote but don't want to pay a dealer an arm and a leg to get it installed.

 

[TripleR]

Check out Fit Rite: Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

I got OEM on mine, but bought a top link for another tractor and he is great to do business with. Brian will be honest with you and tell you if there is a better option, several here use his products. He goes by MtnViewRanch here.

 

[Monster5601]

Also look at Hydraulic top links, Top-N-Tilt, Side links

Their top and side links come with check valves which prevent cylinder ram creep. I would also consider a hydraulic side link, sure comes in handy when box blading.

 

[DK35vince]

Surplus center also has top links with the check valves to prevent leak down (a check valve is recommended IMO)

2X11X1.18 CAT I HYD DA TOP LINK CYL

There are different length toplinks, so measure your stock top link closed pin hole to pin hole to get an idea which hydraulic top link you need

 

[Threepoint]

I've been looking at the various top 'n tilt options as well, and the three vendors identified in the above posts all seem to have a pretty good following. There are several threads on the check valve/no check valve question on TBN and elsewhere to look at before deciding how to go on that. Also, note the difference in diameters of the cylinders and rods, as between these three vendors, for Cat 1 applications. Don't know how much difference 1/2" in cylinder diameter would make in actual use, for example, but on paper it seems like a big difference. (In two of the cases, 2-1/2" vs. 2").

Also (others, pls. correct me if I'm wrong on this), if you put your own system together, it's not just the closed-position length that matters on the OEM manual top link and side link when determining length of the hydraulic replacements. Must also measure the fully-extended length to know how much total throw you'll need to replicate the OEM capability.

You'll also need to make sure that you've accounted for clearance issues and remote valve locations on your particular tractor.

 

[TripleR]

I've been looking at the various top 'n tilt options as well, and the three vendors identified in the above posts all seem to have a pretty good following. There are several threads on the check valve/no check valve question on TBN and elsewhere to look at before deciding how to go on that. Also, note the difference in diameters of the cylinders and rods, as between these three vendors, for Cat 1 applications. Don't know how much difference 1/2" in cylinder diameter would make in actual use, for example, but on paper it seems like a big difference. (In two of the cases, 2-1/2" vs. 2").

Also (others, pls. correct me if I'm wrong on this), if you put your own system together, it's not just the closed-position length that matters on the OEM manual top link and side link when determining length of the hydraulic replacements. Must also measure the fully-extended length to know how much total throw you'll need to replicate the OEM capability.

You'll also need to make sure that you've accounted for clearance issues and remote valve locations on your particular tractor.

I really don't know about the other issues, Brian knows these machines weall as I am sure do others, so he just told me what was required for my machine.

As to the last part, I do agree and have used some very poorly executed installations which is why in some cases Brian recommends OEM controls and valves for a good clean installation.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Here is a link to help decide on what length top link will work best for your application. I have found that it is best to have just a bit more retraction than extension from that measurement.

As far as side links, double check to confirm that you will be getting a unit that provides an equal amount of tilt to each side without loosing 3pt lift height. There are some units out on the market that are built to get you tilt to one side only.

Some people may disagree, but I have found that having flow restrictors makes adjustments sooooooooo much easier. So you may want to consider those also. In fact I consider them a requirement for the hydraulic side links.

Good luck in your search.

 

[chevy]

I got my top links & hose kits from Agri Store USA. The total cost each, including shipping & tax was less than $270.00.
Mine have the double check valve, I also believe these are a must have safety feature.

- Agristore USA | Top-quality agricultural, lawn & garden and industrial replacement parts at prices you can afford | Indianapolis, IN

 

[blucoondawg]

I got my top links & hose kits from Agri Store USA. The total cost each, including shipping & tax was less than $270.00.
Mine have the double check valve, I also believe these are a must have safety feature.

- Agristore USA | Top-quality agricultural, lawn & garden and industrial replacement parts at prices you can afford | Indianapolis, IN

I don't know if I would consider it a safety feature or not but I would maybe use them just to eliminate the cylinders bleeding off, I don't have a float function anyways for my rear remote.

 

[blucoondawg]

Brian, have you sold these kits for the DK50SE? What size ram is typically used? Also in the future I want to add a remote on the front as I will be getting a grapple eventually, I like the one Coyote Machine has, I am presently going to install a second rear remote. What do I need to run hydraulics to the front, rather than run off the rear for the grapple.