Hydraulic top link

[YotaBota]

So I got my first rear blade a few weeks ago, put it together and installed it on my BX25, and off to plow some snow. What a pain in the tail with the constant adjusting the toplink in and out to bring the blade higher or lower when I flip the blade around to push or pull. Would a hydralic top link make this go easier? Is there a kit that can be purchased to work off the BH connections, that would have a cylinder and valve? Or is this usually custom work? I have enough projects to deal with right now, so I am looking for something more on the simpler side, not necessarily the economical way.

 

[TTTTTT]

So I got my first rear blade a few weeks ago, put it together and installed it on my BX25, and off to plow some snow. What a pain in the tail with the constant adjusting the toplink in and out to bring the blade higher or lower when I flip the blade around to push or pull. Would a hydralic top link make this go easier? Is there a kit that can be purchased to work off the BH connections, that would have a cylinder and valve? Or is this usually custom work? I have enough projects to deal with right now, so I am looking for something more on the simpler side, not necessarily the economical way.

The hyd toplink will help you raise and lower a little but more change the angle of the blade, but if that is what you need to do to rotate the blade then I guess it will help and make it easier. I added one for grading but left the blade on for the winter. If you have rear remotes, it is easy to control from a valve there. I can control each of my rear remotes from a stock installed 2 spool valve. It sounds like you would have to add a control valve of some kind to make it work easy.I got my top link from Dalton . Two 2'-3' 1/2" hoses and I was away. Into one of the rear remotes sets. That control valve can feather it nicely. Don't know how I have done without it. For hookups and adjustments while your working it is great.

Hope this helps and answers a few ?'s

Dave

 

[radioman]

I am in the same boat as you. I want to use the same BH ports as well and I been reading here about power beyond, 2 tanks returns. I bought a single spool prince valve from my local hydraulic shop for less then 100 bucks and it comes with a power beyond plug. I am in a middle of another project right now so will not be starting this hydraulic project just yet. The biggest reason I havent really started this project is becuase of the location of where I wanted the valve handle to end up. I prefer to put it in the empty slot on the right but there seems to be no room for the mounting and I am not keen on the valve getting mud and dirt all over.

The other issue is the top link with and without a checkvalve for leakdowns. I have seen posts with positive and negative comments without check valve. I too want to just keep it simple and since its a small tractor, the leakdown "shouldn't" be a issue. This is all speculation right now.

 

[TTTTTT]

I am in the same boat as you. I want to use the same BH ports as well and I been reading here about power beyond, 2 tanks returns. I bought a single spool prince valve from my local hydraulic shop for less then 100 bucks and it comes with a power beyond plug. I am in a middle of another project right now so will not be starting this hydraulic project just yet. The biggest reason I havent really started this project is becuase of the location of where I wanted the valve handle to end up. I prefer to put it in the empty slot on the right but there seems to be no room for the mounting and I am not keen on the valve getting mud and dirt all over.

The other issue is the top link with and without a checkvalve for leakdowns. I have seen posts with positive and negative comments without check valve. I too want to just keep it simple and since its a small tractor, the leakdown "shouldn't" be a issue. This is all speculation right now.

As you saw, mine does not have the check valve, at this point it has not been an issue. No problem with leak down. For now I guess my control valve (no leakage when in neutral position) is solid and the cylinder being new is good. If you do plumb in a control valve, make sure it has detents to keep it in one position (open or close) so you don't have to hold it (with a bungee) to get a flow through. Maybe they all have detents, but make sure. Makes it easy if you hook up your BH or log splitter or other attachments where you need constant flow through. And of course open center valve so when not in use (neutral) your pump flow just dumps back to the tank/reservoir.

Dave

 

[J_J]

TTTTTT ,

If you put the largest 3pt attachment you have on the tractor and raise it up all the way, and shut off the engine, will it still be up in 24 hrs? That is a fair test for a good valve.

radioman ,

The leak down has nothing with the size of the tractor, it is the weight of the attachment and the condition of the spool in the valve you are using.

The check valve incorporated with the cyl, is still a good investment. It is a positive lock for the cyl position, and maintaining a set level.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

TTTTTT ,

If you put the largest 3pt attachment you have on the tractor and raise it up all the way, and shut off the engine, will it still be up in 24 hrs? That is a fair test for a good valve.

radioman ,

The leak down has nothing with the size of the tractor, it is the weight of the attachment and the condition of the spool in the valve you are using.

The check valve incorporated with the cyl, is still a good investment. It is a positive lock for the cyl position, and maintaining a set level.

While this is true, it is not needed in my opinion. I typically am continually adjusting my hydraulics to meet my constantly changing requirements. So to have something set in a position for extended periods of time just does not happen in my circumstances anyway. I have a 2" set of "TnT" for my 3215 and a 3" set for my 7520. Neither set has given me any grief due to leak down. I am not saying that they do not leak down, I am saying that the small amount that they might leak down does not matter for my circumstances.

Most people here will disagree with me, I am only saying what works good for me. If you are tight on money, in my opinion there is no reason to spend the extra money to get the DPOCV.

 

[YotaBota]

Thanks guys for your input. TTTTTT, you are correct that the center link isn't up and down, but is angle. But when the angle of the dangle isn't right yer not gettin nuthin done Also, the angle of the blade changes when you flip it around 180 to plow, so adjustments are needed. Radioman, you have the same tractor as I do, so I would greatly appreciate a followup when you get around to the project. It is bitterly cold here (-30; and -40 with the wind chill) and I don't see that I will be getting to this project in the next couple of months for sure. With temps this cold, chances are good there won't be any new snow to plow. I'll just grin and bear it for now. I don't understand what power beyond is Is leakdown more of a concern when the implement is up and not in use, or is it a concern as well when the implement is down and being used? Also screwing in the toplink all the way angled the blade at the back quite abit, and allowed me to load the tractor onto the trailer, with just a very light scrape as it cleared the ground going up the ramps.

 

[TTTTTT]

TTTTTT ,

If you put the largest 3pt attachment you have on the tractor and raise it up all the way, and shut off the engine, will it still be up in 24 hrs? That is a fair test for a good valve.

radioman ,

The leak down has nothing with the size of the tractor, it is the weight of the attachment and the condition of the spool in the valve you are using.

The check valve incorporated with the cyl, is still a good investment. It is a positive lock for the cyl position, and maintaining a set level.

JJ, you are right about that, can't say I have done a true test as you outline. As 'Montainview ranch' mentioned, for my needs as well with regular changes, I personally don't see the need, but depending on the uses someone may have ,especially with heavier implements may see it as a necessity. i guess it all come down to individual needs. The beauty of tractors, they can do so much for so many different people and needs.

Dave

 

[J_J]

Briefly, Power Beyond, allows one to add valves in series, and each PB valve has to have a return line to tank. If no valves are being used, the fluid flows through each valve and back to tank. The first valve that is used in series, will have priority.


MtnViewRanch is right, that if your valve and cyl are good and hold things in place, no check valves are necessary. Older tractors, will tend to drift down, and becomes a problem when using bush hogging, box blading, things that need a constant level.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

JJ, you are right about that, can't say I have done a true test as you outline. As 'Montainview ranch' mentioned, for my needs as well with regular changes, I personally don't see the need, but depending on the uses someone may have ,especially with heavier implements may see it as a necessity. i guess it all come down to individual needs. The beauty of tractors, they can do so much for so many different people and needs.

Dave

Just as a follow up. The implements that I use with my 7520 (75hp) are mostly heavy duty cat 2. They weigh up to 2800lbs I believe, and I have no issues with any of my implements drifting so that it affects my work.

As JJ said, usually happens with older equipment where it could be a benefit to have the DPOCV. Or you could put some new seals in the control valve and be good to go again for a few years.