Hydraulic top link

[Janos]

I have a MF GC 2610 and I bough Land Pride blade box and a hydraulic top link. I thought there is a simple way to install to the existing hydraulic connection of the back hoe. I ordered the Owners Manual but I don't have it yet. What would I need to make it work.

 

[LouNY]

When you mention backhoe you get me nervous.
Have you removed your backhoe already and if so what did you do with the hydraulic lines to the hoe?

Does your tractor have any rear remotes?

Got any pictures of the rear of the tractor?

If the backhoe was getting it's hydraulics from a rear remote that was detented to power the hoe and returned to center when the hoe wasn't being in use or was detached from the tractor.

If you were not powering the hoe from rear remotes but from a pair of hoses with one male and one female connector, I hope you have connected them together to continue the flow loop through them.

 

[Racer4]

I have a 2410 and was wondering how to do this as well.

When the backhoe is removed (controls and everything), there are 3 hoses that connect to the backhoe attachment, 2 of them get hooked to each other. The third just hangs there, not hooked to anything.

There has to be a way to use these 3 lines to run a valve and control a h.t.l.

I don’t know enough about hydraulics to make it happen.

 

[Janos]

When you mention backhoe you get me nervous.
Have you removed your backhoe already and if so what did you do with the hydraulic lines to the hoe?

Does your tractor have any rear remotes?

Got any pictures of the rear of the tractor?

If the backhoe was getting it's hydraulics from a rear remote that was detented to power the hoe and returned to center when the hoe wasn't being in use or was detached from the tractor.

If you were not powering the hoe from rear remotes but from a pair of hoses with one male and one female connector, I hope you have connected them together to continue the flow loop through them.

Thank you Lou; no I did not remove the backhoe, and yes I know about the looping requirement thanks to some YT video by a dealer showing of a smaller MF model how to remove the backhoe. I don't have any additional/after market rear remotes. Just like Racer4 mentioned I would think that we can use the existing lines that powers the backhoe to power a small top link hydraulics. It is just a simple plumbing at the end, in IMHO. I saw online a bunch rear remote kits looking very complicated for over thousand dollars with electrical control. That is not my tractor on the picture (I did not remove the backhoe) but it is the same.

 

[dicktill]

I have a MF GC 2610 and I bough Land Pride blade box and a hydraulic top link. I thought there is a simple way to install to the existing hydraulic connection of the back hoe. I ordered the Owners Manual but I don't have it yet. What would I need to make it work.

I have a 2410 and was wondering how to do this as well.

When the backhoe is removed (controls and everything), there are 3 hoses that connect to the backhoe attachment, 2 of them get hooked to each other. The third just hangs there, not hooked to anything.

There has to be a way to use these 3 lines to run a valve and control a h.t.l.

I don’t know enough about hydraulics to make it happen.

This not too difficult and I have done this on my 2022 GC1723EB. You need an open center spool valve with pressure beyond port/sleeve.

Hook up the three lines for the backhoe as follows:
- The yellow quick connect (pressure beyond line from the loader valve) goes to the P port of the new valve.
- The blue quick connect (the pressure beyond feed to the 3-point control valve) goes to the PB (or N) port of the new valve.
- The red quick connect (drain to transaxle) goes to the T port of the new valve.

I would advise that you get a multi-spool valve rather than a single spool. Other spool(s) can be used for tilt cylinder(s) and blade rotation kit for the Land Pride back blade (Kubota sells kits for that), as well as any other hydraulic function you care to add. Can even be used for a front grapple (with very long hoses).

GC Hydraulic discussion and schematics here: How Massey Ferguson GC 1723 & 1725 hydraulics are plumbed

 

[LouNY]

With that setup you can add remotes fairly easily;
using this as an example.
Find out which of your two main lines is the pressure feed line, it would go in the P port,
the existing line that is feed through line would gp on the N port with the power beyond spool installed.
the T port would likely connect to your existing 3rd line.

depending upon how your tractor is plumbed the pressure line could be direct from the pressure pump to the backhoe connection, then to the loader, then to the 3 point valve with return to tank lines on the backhoe valve and the loader valve.
alternatively it could be from the pump to the loader valve with it leaving the loader valve from an N port to feed the backhoe and the backhoes N port heading to the 3 point control with lines connected to the T ports and returning to the reservoir.

Edited mine to say dicktill has an excellent post and directions which was posted as I was slowly typing mine.

 

[dicktill]

This not too difficult and I have done this on my 2022 GC1723EB. You need an open center spool valve with pressure beyond port/sleeve.

Hook up the three lines for the backhoe as follows:
- The yellow quick connect (pressure beyond line from the loader valve) goes to the P port of the new valve.
- The blue quick connect (the pressure beyond feed to the 3-point control valve) goes to the PB (or N) port of the new valve.
- The red quick connect (drain to transaxle) goes to the T port of the new valve.

I would advise that you get a multi-spool valve rather than a single spool. Other spool(s) can be used for tilt cylinder(s) and blade rotation kit for the Land Pride back blade (Kubota sells kits for that), as well as any other hydraulic function you care to add. Can even be used for a front grapple (with very long hoses).

GC Hydraulic discussion and schematics here: How Massey Ferguson GC 1723 & 1725 hydraulics are plumbed

Thanks @LouNY.

What I described above would entail having either the backhoe or the remote(s) valve hooked up, but not both.

What I actually did with mine was to tap into (i.e., replace with two lines) the return line from the backhoe (the blue quick connector) for the remotes valve, so that everything is always hooked up and in series. This then requires that you still connect the blue and yellow backhoe quick connects together when the backhoe is removed.

 

[Janos]

This not too difficult and I have done this on my 2022 GC1723EB. You need an open center spool valve with pressure beyond port/sleeve.

Hook up the three lines for the backhoe as follows:
- The yellow quick connect (pressure beyond line from the loader valve) goes to the P port of the new valve.
- The blue quick connect (the pressure beyond feed to the 3-point control valve) goes to the PB (or N) port of the new valve.
- The red quick connect (drain to transaxle) goes to the T port of the new valve.

I would advise that you get a multi-spool valve rather than a single spool. Other spool(s) can be used for tilt cylinder(s) and blade rotation kit for the Land Pride back blade (Kubota sells kits for that), as well as any other hydraulic function you care to add. Can even be used for a front grapple (with very long hoses).

GC Hydraulic discussion and schematics here: How Massey Ferguson GC 1723 & 1725 hydraulics are plumbed

Thank you, I will check it out.

 

[Janos]

Thanks @LouNY.

What I described above would entail having either the backhoe or the remote(s) valve hooked up, but not both.

What I actually did with mine was to tap into (i.e., replace with two lines) the return line from the backhoe (the blue quick connector) for the remotes valve, so that everything is always hooked up and in series. This then requires that you still connect the blue and yellow backhoe quick connects together when the backhoe is removed.

I like the idea of hooking up in series. The "tap into" means split the line from the backhoe somehow. Or from the pump? I'm trying to visualize it as I did not remove anything yet. Where did you installed the control valves? Is there any chance you would have a parts list.

 

[dicktill]

I like the idea of hooking up in series. The "tap into" means split the line from the backhoe somehow. Or from the pump? I'm trying to visualize it as I did not remove anything yet. Where did you installed the control valves? Is there any chance you would have a parts list.

You should tap into (or break into) the line on the tractor side (I should have been clearer). On the backhoe side would technically work but would be a bear when you wanted to remove the backhoe.

I said above that I tapped into the blue quick disconnect line, but you could just as well tap into the yellow quick disconnect line (I have done it both ways). As long as all the valves are in series it will work.

I installed the control valve on an L-shaped bracket using three of the four fasteners of the left-hand ROPS (had to avoid the bracket for the seat belt), so that the valve is above where the "cup holder" is (I added bicycle bottle holders on each of the ROPS posts instead).

Parts list, ha! : ) I started off with a four-spool Summit valve, but I do not recommend their valves for several reasons. Four spools to run the top link, dual side links (so I can get a lot of side-to-side angle on the blade), and the rotator cylinder (#301-526A) on the Land Pride RB1660 back blade. I am in the final (I hope) steps of replacing it with much nicer but much more expensive five-spool Bucher valve. The fifth spool is to run the 3-point hitch instead of the factory valve, but that's another story. I went through several iterations of hoses and fittings so far and as part of the Bucher valve setup. But if you decide on a valve and mounting spot, I can help you with choosing the lines and fittings.

I'm attaching a "teaser view" of the Summit valve setup and "bungle of snakes". The Bucher valve setup will still have a "bundle of snakes" but will be a much cleaner bundle with the valve a bit further forward and a bracket across the back of the ROPS with all the quick connects, instead of them being on the valve.