Hydraulic valve + top cylinder and associated hoses assistance

[SilencedNine]

I have a valve picked out (2 spool to add a tilt later on) - https://summit-hydraulics.com/produ...-control-valve-2-spool-w-single-float-11-gpm/
I have a top cylinder picked out - Amazon.com: Hydraulic Top Link Cat. 1-1 with Locking Block 20 7/8” - 31 7/8” with 2 x Hose : Patio, Lawn & Garden

What is the best way to go about getting all the hoses and fittings selected/ordered/made, etc? Getting the correct fitting type and size to make all the connections seems like a fairly daunting task. What is the best approach?

 

[oldnslo]

With out having the valve mounted and top link installed you would be guessing at required fittings and hoses.

mince installed you can then take a piece of air hose and use that as a template for figuring out how the lines will run and what fittings you will require.

 

[ptsg]

Don't forget to get the Power Beyond sleeve for that valve. Should be labeled as P40 Power beyond sleeve or carry over plug.

 

[old and tired]

I mounted my valve first. I then I over thought the process, the two hydraulic hoses that came with the top link, I put quick couplers on the end (thinking I might remove it sometime, yup, never even thought about doing that...)

Ever thinking about adding a grapple down the road? For not much more money, you can go with a 3 spool. https://summit-hydraulics.com/produ...pm/?attribute_float-option=Single+Spool+Float This one doesn't have a float and adding a float is $209 but out of stock.

And you do need the power beyond sleeve.

 

[SilencedNine]

I mounted my valve first. I then I over thought the process, the two hydraulic hoses that came with the top link, I put quick couplers on the end (thinking I might remove it sometime, yup, never even thought about doing that...)

Ever thinking about adding a grapple down the road? For not much more money, you can go with a 3 spool. https://summit-hydraulics.com/produ...pm/?attribute_float-option=Single+Spool+Float This one doesn't have a float and adding a float is $209 but out of stock.

And you do need the power beyond sleeve.

Power beyond sleeve is in cart, I neglected to list it. I just might go with a 3 valve because why not. You never know what you might want to add in the future.

I suppose my primary concern is how do I determine what the Kubota OEM fitting sizes are? I will have to run a new line from the PB port on the FEL to the valve and from the valve back to the manifold under the step, and also also a return to tank line. Does anyone know what OEM fitting type/size these are?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Power beyond sleeve is in cart, I neglected to list it. I just might go with a 3 valve because why not. You never know what you might want to add in the future.

I suppose my primary concern is how do I determine what the Kubota OEM fitting sizes are? I will have to run a new line from the PB port on the FEL to the valve and from the valve back to the manifold under the step, and also also a return to tank line. Does anyone know what OEM fitting type/size these are?

#8 JIC.

 

[old and tired]

Call your dealer to be sure but if they have not changed the Standard L's used to be SAE 8. {edit: I see MtnView listed another, he knows best - and is most likely more up todate} Again, ask the your dealer...

I used hoses that had 3/8 NPT but I tied in Parker needle valves for the top and side links. Allows for precise control. Grapple just needs open / close.

I used a bunch of 45* and 90* adapters that could have been built right on the hydraulic hoses. Discount Hydraulic hoses, I would call them once you know what ends you need and have the valve mounted so you can meeasure it correctly. Use a water hose to route your lines to where you need them, and measure the hoses.

For the record, I mounted my valve right on top of the FEL control. I did that since I could just move lines from the FEL to the new valve and buy one hose to connect the two together.

I used flat 1/4" stock with threaded rod to make a place to mount the new valve (one threaded rod went through the new spool, the 1/4" stock which continued into the original hole the the plastic cover for the FEL was held on to.

I removed the power beyond from the FEL, screwed it in to the new valve, bought a hose to loop from the FEL power beyond and screwed it into the new valve's IN port (power in). Then since the two return to tanks were so close, I used a "T" adapter to connect the two together.

It's a real birds nest but it's totally out of the way.

 

[old and tired]

One other thing... for others that might be reading, your valve that you picked had "Float" but the hydraulic top link had a "Check" valve on it which would not allow it to use the "float" feature!!!


"...This top link is equipped with a locking block. With this valve, the oil is enclosed in the cylinder by a check valve..."

Also found more photos.... again not sure what might have changed over the years for the Standard L's FEL.

 

[SilencedNine]

One other thing... for others that might be reading, your valve that you picked had "Float" but the hydraulic top link had a "Check" valve on it which would not allow it to use the "float" feature!!!


"...This top link is equipped with a locking block. With this valve, the oil is enclosed in the cylinder by a check valve..."

Also found more photos.... again not sure what might have changed over the years for the Standard L's FEL.

Right. The valve I listed has one float and one non-float spool. The float is for the future side/tilt cylinder. I intended to use the non-float for the top. It's a noteworthy comment though, for other readers. Thanks.