Hydraulics Issues

[Davinator]

Last weekend, I was grading with a box blade and noticed that I had lost the ability to raise or adjust the implement. After checking fluid level on the dipstick, I noticed that the fluid was not showing on the stick. I added the better part of a gallon to the tank, and while it still was not registering on the stick, hydraulic function was restored.

I notified the local dealer last Monday and made a service appointment. The service manager called me during the week to tell me that they had gone over the tractor from top to bottom and could find no signs of the source of a leak and that everything appeared to be working fine.

They delivered the tractor to me last evening and I immediately went back to work. As I was mounting the grapple, the very first thing that I noticed was that the front hydraulics did not seem right. After trying several things, I was finally able to raise the FEL but only by revving the engine to over 25K rpm, and even then, the hydraulics were real slow. While not as bad, the rear hydraulics were similarly unusual. I checked the hydraulic fluid level and again, found it to not be registering on the dipstick.

Can anyone offer a suggestion as to what might be going on? It shouldn't be necessary, but has anyone experienced something similar that I can direct the service dept. at the dealer as to what to hone in on.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[rScotty]

Can anyone offer a suggestion as to what might be going on? It shouldn't be necessary, but has anyone experienced something similar that I can direct the service dept. at the dealer as to what to hone in on.
Thanks,
Dave

A gallon leaking to the outside world is enough for anyone to notice. Can we assume that since both you and the dealer didn't find signs of a external leak then the oil hasn't leaked out somewhere? And if it's not leaking out, the first place we would look would be at the engine oil level...and any other cavity within the tractor where extra hydraulic fluid could be hiding.

I reckon that you already added fluid to fill it back up to the level. That's what I'd do to start. Can't think of why that would hurt anything unless it really is getting into the engine oil.....or the water. So I'd level the machine, fill the hydraulic fluid up to level with the implement and FEL both on the ground, and go from there. Hate to say this, but basically the mechanics are going to need more info and the best way to get it is for you to chase that problem around and take notes.
Good Luck,

 

[Davinator]

Thanks Scotty. I hate the idea of adding more Super UDT only to have it disappear, but I have to get to the bottom of this, one way or another.

 

[Barnone]

Very strange problem. The fluid has be be leaking somewhere but where? Like Scotty said that much fluid leaking out would surely be noticed.

The dealer found the tractor to be OK?

 

[Davinator]

Yeah, the service manager swore he checked the fluid level after the tractor was loaded onto the roll-off for delivery. Sending it back today for another look see.

 

[Davinator]

Update: The service manager just called to tell me that after extensive flow/pressure troubleshooting on the hydraulic system, they have determined that the tractor has a defective hydraulic pump, which will be replaced under warranty. The rig has a sum total of 78 hours! Who'd a thunk it?

 

[PHILIP8N]

Seams strange you still cannot see fluid level on stick. Is tractor off when you check it? My SUDT is almost clear, so you have to look very hard, try different types of light. Be careful spinning your engine over 25K rpm, it may not last very long at that speed Philip.

 

[rScotty]

Seams strange you still cannot see fluid level on stick. Is tractor off when you check it? My SUDT is almost clear, so you have to look very hard, try different types of light.

I took my hydraulic dipstick out, cleaned it well, and then heated the lower six inches over the kitchen stove burner....not much heat, just until the metal turned a deep straw color. Now the oil level is much easier to see. The color on the stick doesn't come off; it's permanent.

I'm assuming that the shop filled it properly before they delivered it. Did anyone ever figure out where the gallon of hydraulic fluid went?
rScotty

 

[PHILIP8N]

I took my hydraulic dipstick out, cleaned it well, and then heated the lower six inches over the kitchen stove burner....not much heat, just until the metal turned a deep straw color. Now the oil level is much easier to see. The color on the stick doesn't come off; it's permanent.

I'm assuming that the shop filled it properly before they delivered it. Did anyone ever figure out where the gallon of hydraulic fluid went?
rScotty

I like your idea of heating the dip stick.

Are you sure the level has dropped a gallon and was just never filled to the full line?

Did you add any implements with hydraulic remotes that consumed fluid?

You cannot see any external hydraulic leaks?

This is a long shot, but I have seen it in much older equipment. The clutch housing is dry. On one side is the rear crank oil seal, on the other side is the tranmission input shaft seal. If either of these seals leak, it will leak into the dry clutch housing. In the bottom of the clutch housing is a cotter pin in a hole. The cotter pin is there to vibrate and wiggle so the hole will never become clogged with debris and fill the dry clutch housing with oil. In extreme cases, the cotter pin and hole will still clog, holding oil in the housing. If the oil level gets too high, your clutch will slip, but you have not mentioned this yet. Wiggle your cotter pin and see if it is dry. I think this is unlikely, but worth mentioning.

Philip.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Seams strange you still cannot see fluid level on stick. Is tractor off when you check it? My SUDT is almost clear, so you have to look very hard, try different types of light. Be careful spinning your engine over 25K rpm, it may not last very long at that speed Philip.

Phillip,

I have a BX25 and both the manual and the serrvice manager have assured me that the engine is designed to run at max tach speed for sustained times, in fact the hyd and pto outputs are only at factory spec at 3100 rpm.

Ron