3-Point Hitch hyraulic top link? B21

[Tinhack]

Well yeah, those factory turnbuckles do look a little Mickey-Mouse. You probably are ahead there. But with an implement attached, the chains are NOT being PUSHED as everyone thinks. The force is applied to the opposing side in a PULL. Your turnbuckle was not bent in a pull. Which means to me, they were NOT adjusted correctly. The truth is the "rigid" stabilizers aren't rigid. They can only be adjusted to the nearest loose hole. Shortly after the beginning of the video shows what I'm talking about. The guy moves the arm back and forth with the "rigid" stabilizer installed (preview). The lower arms can still flop around. They sure don't look compatible with a quick hitch either. Too much slop or the arms have to be offset--Not centered behind the tractor.

My chain links are 1/2" with a 1 1/8" closed nut over 3/4" threaded ends. It's not like those open nut style you're showing in your photo. I have no problems with mine.

 

[Smokeydog]

Box blades require lots of adjustments to be most effective. The turnbuckle adjusters for stabilization and leveling on the TLB are not good. Have experience with B20, B26 and M59.

B26 mods

Modified the pin stabilizers and added the leveling box.
Use the same pin stabilizers on the M59 so they are plenty strong.

Hydraulic top and tilt would be nice. Factory, custom or DIY. Depends on your money and experience.

I agree the OEM top link is too wimpy to push backwards. Cheap box blades will also bend or break pushing backwards too.

Load the rears if you do much ground engagement.

 

[kwbretired]

I totally agree with tinhack. I’ve pushed with my box blade for 30 years & never had a problem with the chain stabilizers. Iv push everything you can think of over the years trees, stumps, dirt, gravel, bolders etc. the list can go on forever.