horse2292
Bronze Member
Oh by the way. Tie rod for 2816's are $115.
Mowing I hate stumps
- Thread starter horse2292
- Start date
JimRB
Veteran Member
You can't get someone to heat it up and staighten it? Or find a 20 ton press and straighten it? Enough places around where you live that someone should have a press or torch.
creekbend
Super Star Member
Good Luck.
:tractor:
:tractor:
George2615
Super Member
Just in case it happens again (or to anyone else) there is a cheaper way to repair this if you can weld.
A friend with a 2615 hit a stump and bent his tie rod. He called me, I went over and we removed his tie rod. It looked like a boomerang. I straightened his tie rod back at my garage with a 12 ton press. Three weeks later he hit another stump and completely broke it in half. Since I have the same tractor, I measured the length of my tie rod and made him a new one using a piece of 1/2" thick wall schedule 80 pipe. I cut the threaded ends off of his broken rod (the threaded parts were still straight) and welded them to the new piece of 1/2". That was 4 years ago and its still doing fine. Of course he has since removed the stumps that were sticking up.
A friend with a 2615 hit a stump and bent his tie rod. He called me, I went over and we removed his tie rod. It looked like a boomerang. I straightened his tie rod back at my garage with a 12 ton press. Three weeks later he hit another stump and completely broke it in half. Since I have the same tractor, I measured the length of my tie rod and made him a new one using a piece of 1/2" thick wall schedule 80 pipe. I cut the threaded ends off of his broken rod (the threaded parts were still straight) and welded them to the new piece of 1/2". That was 4 years ago and its still doing fine. Of course he has since removed the stumps that were sticking up.
boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
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- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
ouch!
at least it should be a fairly simple removal / reinstall. vs having to take off multi shields, nuts, etc... and no need to have it hauled into a shop for a repair.
if ya have a front loader keep it low to the ground, so more likely to hit something with bucket first. *assumption bushing hogging / using rotatory cutter*
if no front loader. might suggest putting a stronger grill across radiator. so you do not cram something into it. and require a new radiator and grill.
at least it should be a fairly simple removal / reinstall. vs having to take off multi shields, nuts, etc... and no need to have it hauled into a shop for a repair.
if ya have a front loader keep it low to the ground, so more likely to hit something with bucket first. *assumption bushing hogging / using rotatory cutter*
if no front loader. might suggest putting a stronger grill across radiator. so you do not cram something into it. and require a new radiator and grill.
I weld, too - that's a pretty impressive weld. Please share what process you used, what rod, etc.
George2615
Super Member
I cut off and saved the threaded ends from the old tie rod. Then beveled a 45 on the tie rod ends and the new piece of schedule 80 with a 4 1/2" grinder. Then butted them together and welded using 3/32" 7018 rod.
For extra strength you could drill a hole in the tie rod threaded end and sched. 80 then insert a smaller diameter pipe or steel rod inside and weld the inner pipe to the outer pipe where the drilled holes are.
I didn't see a need to go that far since 7018 is pretty strong rod and is plenty strong enough.
The weakest part of the tie rod I welded up are the threaded pieces from the old tie rod. They are not as thick as schedule 80 but more like sched. 40
I've attached a rough diagram of what I did.
