I have aux lighting questions

BarnieTrk · Aug 24, 2015

Hi Fellas,

I am not an electrician, nor do not play one on TV.
But, I plan to install two rearward-facing lamps from my ROPS on my '89 1720 FORD.

Here are the lamps I'm interested in: Grote 64931 Rubber Tractor & Utility lamp
Their information says:

Product Description: # 64931- 12 Volt
Material: Rubber
Finish: Black
Bulb: 64931 - #4411, PAR 36, 35 Watt, 2,500 C.P.
Voltage Amp: 12 V - 2.7 AMP
Bulb: 64991 - #H7606, PAR 36, 50 Watt, 1,000 C.P.
Voltage Amp: 12 V - 3.9 AMP
Bulb: 64891-5 - #4511, PAR 36, 30 Watt, 2,000 C.P.
Bulb: 64921 - #4589, PAR 36, 50 Watt, 5,000 C.P.

Shock-absorbing weather-proof body, for versatile application as utility, fifth wheel, back-up, tractor, forklift, or off-road vehicle lamp.
Swivel mount, Trapezoid beam pattern.

Questions:

1) Does the info above mean that I can use any one of the four sealed beam bulbs listed in the #54931 fixture?

2) Here is my flexible wiring plan: I am thinking of running 14-gauge MTW wire. A red, feed (hot) wire would come from the (+) battery post, into a 15-AMP inline fuse within a foot or so of the battery, through a weather-proof toggle switch mounted at the base of the ROPS, then run the single feed up through the ROPS framework and split at the top to feed both fixtures. I would also run a black, 14-ga. ground wire from each fixture into one black wire then down the ROPS to a secure ground on the tractor frame/engine. Grommets & tape as appropriate.
Does this sound like a do-able plan without issues?

I realize the claimed benefits of using LED lights, but I simply don't like their light output.

Thanks for any & all advice, Guys!
BarnieTrk

BoylermanCT · Aug 24, 2015

My only concern is if the electrical system can handle the extra watts. Assuming you will also be using the existing headlights at the same time, so you could be doubling the watt output on the electrical system. 14 gauge wire should have no issue with a load of 100 watts total. Converting to LEDs would allow you to significantly increase light and lower total wattage. They sell 2700K, 3000K and 5000K LED's now. The 2700's are a warm white and similar to the lights you are proposing. Are you drilling into the ROPS for the switch, light mounts and wire holes? That can weaken the ROPS.

On my tractor, I disconnected by headlights from the harness (they were useless when the FEL is on), and used a 14 gauge outdoor extension cord to run power to the ROPS. The cord plugged directly into the existing harness, and I mounted 2 forward facing LED clusters and 1 backward facing. This setup allowed me to keep the wiring harness intact, use the original headlight switch in the dash and instead of running 2 55 watt bulbs, I am pulling 3 27 watt LEDs for a total of 81 watts and 10X the amount of light. I ran the wire outside the ROPS so I would not have to drill into it.

BarnieTrk · Aug 24, 2015

Thanks for your reply and input, BoylermanCT! :thumbsup:

I hadn't considered that the electrical system may not be able to handle the extra load. I had figured that I would face both auxillary lights towards the rear and likely would not have the head lights on at the same time....but I suppose that could happen.

Regarding going with some 2700K LEDs, I may convert to LED replacement "bulbs" in the future, but not likely. At my present rate, I use the tractor so infrequently and even less in the dark, I wonder why I am even considering this project. Reason being I guess, is it only seems right to have some rear facing lighting JUST IN CASE I need them some day.

Good to hear the 14 ga wire is fine.

Hmmmmm,,,,, I figured it would take a couple of 1/4" holes to mount each fixture mount and a 3/8" hole at the top and one at the bottom for the wiring to pass thru. I may move the toggle switch mounting to the fender, near the base of the ROPS, eliminating the need for those small holes. I didn't think those couple of small-sized mount holes and only two wire holes would weaken the ROPS enough to reduce its protection capabilities.....???

BarnieTrk

BoylermanCT · Aug 24, 2015

The holes in the ROPS may not weaken it significantly, but if your tractor was new, it would void the warranty. I figured why mess with it - one day it could save your life. It'd be a bummer if it failed because of the holes. Not worth the risk in my book!

Once you add the lights, you will find all sorts of use for it in the dark! During the summer I rarely use it at night, but in the winter, I am usually plowing when I get home in the evening, and the lights are well worth it.

BarnieTrk · Aug 24, 2015

This is an '89 machine, so the warranty is long gone. But you make a valid point on staying safe; and I do operate it on hilly ground and always wear my seat belt because I don't like it when one of my rear wheels comes off the ground - it gets HAIRY QUICK! I may need that ROPS to work as intended!

I looked in my owner's manual and the alternator is rated for 35 amps. But I don't know how many amps my headlights would draw....so I suppose I will need to insure I don't run all the lights together for extended periods or they may draw my battery down faster than the alternator can charge it.

What is your take on whether or not I should run a relay in my wiring circuit?

Is wiring in a relay a good practice for what I'm proposing?

Thanks again!

BarnieTrk

BoylermanCT · Aug 25, 2015

An alternator rated for 35 amps at 12 volts can handle 420 watts (amps x volts = watts) Not sure how much electric power is used by everything other than the lights. But if you have a fuse or circuit breaker in line, then if you draw too much, you'll trip the breaker. Usually you use a relay when powering high power lights so you don't have to use heavy gauge wire in the entire circuit. I don't think you have this issue, so I would not bother with the relay.

BarnieTrk · Aug 25, 2015

BoylermanCT said:
An alternator rated for 35 amps at 12 volts can handle 420 watts (amps x volts = watts) Not sure how much electric power is used by everything other than the lights. But if you have a fuse or circuit breaker in line, then if you draw too much, you'll trip the breaker. Usually you use a relay when powering high power lights so you don't have to use heavy gauge wire in the entire circuit. I don't think you have this issue, so I would not bother with the relay.

That is exactly what I needed to know......

Thanks for explaining it in layman's terminology for a guy like me who is "electrically-challenged"! LOL!

Wishing you a GREAT Day! :drink:

BarnieTrk :thumbsup:

bumperm · Aug 25, 2015

You mentioned you don't like the light output of LEDs, but didn't say why?

If it's the blue white color (temperature) that you don't care for, that's easy enough to fix, simply select a LED light fixture with the color temperature you prefer: Color Temperature (Kelvin)

By taking LED's out of consideration, you are eliminating a vastly superior and more efficient (lower power or current draw per lumen) light source. Using LED's just makes sense nowadays, brighter more even lighting and up to 50,000 hour life, makes LEDs a better option in most cases as compared to incandescent lights.

I have two of these facing forward and two aft - just like daylight (though too high and too bright for on road use when mounted to the tractor roof or ROPS:

36W LED Work Light Bar 6 5" CREE Flood Off Roard Ute Boat ATV 4X4WD 36 Watt 2pcs | eBay

In this photo, it's a stock 35 watt halogen on the left and a 36 watt LED on the right (tractor's left facing you).

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/...actor/IMG_20131227_163351_823_zps5fd45928.jpg

PILOON · Aug 25, 2015

Most quality toggle switches can handle 10 amps DC (standard size, not minis).
Rather than using relays you can split, ex, front and rear and eliminate relays.
The simpler the installation the less trouble prone.
With LEDs any switch will do.

BarnieTrk · Aug 25, 2015

Thanks for your input, PILOON. I figured I'd look for a 10AMP toggle switch.

Can you recommend a quality, weatherproof, toggle switch that would work for this application?
I looked at Radio Shack's web site and didn't really see anything that looked 'weatherproof'.....

(Although my tractor does sleep under a roof, it will likely see some operating time in blowing snow, possibly some rain...)

Thanks,
BarnieTrk