I just got my loader back from the machine shop

[Jstpssng]

I had to have it welded after the cross piece broke out. Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the 2 arms be parallel? The shop said they'd fix it if it's wrong, but felt that it wasOK, even though the pin bushings are at obvious angles to each other.

I hate to haul it 45 miles and try to muscle it back into palce only to find it's wrong. I probably should have brought the whole tractor down, but my trailer doesn't have brakes (yet), and had I gone 3 wereks without it, I'd be going through serious withdrawal by now.

.

 

[RoyJackson]

Is this a quick attach loader? The way your post reads, it's not...

It sure seems like those arms should be parallel as you stand behind the loader looking forward (as if you were on the tractor).

If those bushings are that out of parallelism, the loader may be very difficult to install and even more difficult to remove. There could also be excessive wear during use.
Or, it's possible the loader will right itself as it's installed. There isn't much support on the masts until they're set in the receptacles of the tractor.

If I were you, I'd get that tractor to the the repair shop and install it there, even if that means renting a trailer or getting it hauled on a rollback.

Good luck!

 

[Jstpssng]

No, it's not a quick detach. You just confirmed what I suspected... including the need to bring the tractor down.

I'll probably go loaderless for a couple more weeks, until I can get brakes on my trailer. Then you'll be seeing another post, looking for the best way to chain the tractor down.

Thanks for the help.

 

[RoyJackson]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( No, it's not a quick detach. You just confirmed what I suspected... including the need to bring the tractor down.

I'll probably go loaderless for a couple more weeks, until I can get brakes on my trailer. Then you'll be seeing another post, looking for the best way to chain the tractor down.

Thanks for the help. )</font>

Definitely your best bet. Installing it at the repair shop will let them see any difficulties which will be much more reliable then you trying to describe the problem.

I am very interested in reading about how this works out for you. My guess is one of two things:
1) The shop will use a come-along or a spreader (depending on how the masts are splayed) to tweak the masts back into a reason parallel condition.
2) They'll have to modify the cross tube to correct the problem.

Make sure they're OK with leaving that loader at the shop. Loaders take up a lot of square footage of floor space. If they need to store it outside until you get the tractor there, you may want to ensure the caps are on the hydraulic lines and give the zerks a shot of grease. I'd consider putting a thin film of grease on the cylinder piston rods too.