I need a smart GM mechanic's help

   / I need a smart GM mechanic's help #1  

JimR

Elite Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2004
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3,610
Location
Central Ma.
Tractor
Kioti NX4510HST
I need a smart GM mechanic\'s help

My son came home Saturday night from D.C. with my 2000 Blazer S-10 4.3 V6. The engine light was on. I took it down and had it checked at a parts store. They said that it showed the truck was skipping intermittently and that one of the 02 sensors was gone. I figured with 120K on the truck I'd change all 3 sensors and end that problem. I had the light reset and it still drives like an underpowered vehicle. The motor has only 12,000 miles on it. I replaced it last year with a brand new complete engine. If you are driving on flat ground it stumbles on take-off unless you floor it. As soon as you try to pull a hill it has no balls whatsoever and may misfire. In 2nd gear it will wind out to 3800 rpm's tops. The fuel pump is fine and tested fine. It has a new fuel filter also. I also replaced the spark plugs. I see no loose vacuum lines or anything else wrong with it. The timing is non adjustable and it does advance when revved up. The motor will redline in nuetral with no problem. The engine light is back on again now for the same reason, misfiring. Yesterday I took the truck to the local Chevy dealer. It cost me $120.00 to have them tell me they found the catalytic converter was plugged. they wanted $1006.00 for a new one. I welded in a universal one today for under $80.00. Now I have replced a perfectly good converter only to find out the truck runs the same. Seeing how I have a complete motor in my garage with all the relays,switches and do-hickies on it, I figured I'd swap out a few to see if they made any difference. Knowing that the truck stumbles when you take off. I replaced the TSP throttle position switch. No change on that one. Then I thought maybe it might be the EGR valve. So I swapped that one out. No change on that one either. Next was the MAP sensor. Same old thing, just another switch. Then I got a bright idea and decided to disconnect the wire on the EGR valve. Bingo, the truck runs almost like new again. Hmmm, $120.00 for diagnostics at Ragsdale Chevrolet to tell me a perfectly good catalytic converter was no good. I'll be visiting them in the morning to either get my money back or have them find out what the real problem with my truck is. I think it may be the VCM Vehicle Command module that is bad. Hopefully they can run a test with their meter to check this out. I'm really glad that I didn't fall for their $1006.00 catalytic convertor job. I could just see the smoke boiling out of my ears when I would have picked the truck up to find out it was running just like when I dropped it off. I guess I'll have to teach them how to test drive a vehicle. Anyone have any ideas as to what can cause this other than the VCM? There is power to the EGR with the key on and the vehicle not running.
 
   / I need a smart GM mechanic's help #2  
Re: I need a smart GM mechanic\'s help

I'm not a GM mechanic - don't claim to be smart either but I'll tell you what Mom just had to have done with her '96 Beretta with 36k (that isn't a mistype) on it. She had it everywhere trying to find the mis. Check Engine light on and it kept studdering and just wouldn't go. After replacing EGR valve, plugs, O2 sensors, coil packs, battery and something else that so called mechanics were telling her to change. I finally just gave up and had her take it to a dealership (which at least you already did) and they found out that 4 of the 6 fuel injectors were bad. $1400 later she has her car back running like new.
 
   / I need a smart GM mechanic's help #3  
Re: I need a smart GM mechanic\'s help

Do you know how many codes were set and what they were?
For example P0304 is misfire on cylinder 4. P0300 would be random misfires.

I'm not a GM mech but t aking the connector off the EGR makes me think there may be a chafed wire. If the EGR is being held open it will cause stalling and hesitation.

Have you put it back on to see if the problem comes back?
 
   / I need a smart GM mechanic's help #4  
Re: I need a smart GM mechanic\'s help

Sorry your having all the problems. I'm not a GM mechanic, though I have stayed in a Holiday Inn Express for my real job. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Seriously, The parts stor guys love to tell you that you need O2's, they dont have a clue, but they collect the money for those parts. Just because you hasve a lean/rich code normally has nothing to do with your O2's, they are simply tattle tales. If you have the codes they retrieved, I can help you figure it out. Though, it sounds like you have an EGR coming on which would show all sensors rich and certainly cause your problem. The real question is, does it run rough and stumble all the time, or is it torque related. From what I gather it will run good until the engine torques over, this would mean that you have a harness chaffe that is inadvertantly shorting the EGR control side to ground. The EGR should have B+ to it at all times, the PCM supplies ground to make it work. Trace the ground wire.

Let us know what you find. I may be off base, but thats what I read into it.
 
   / I need a smart GM mechanic's help #5  
Re: I need a smart GM mechanic\'s help

As stated above, if you can find the specific DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes), that would help me help you. Here is a .pdf of the EGR circuit. I wouldn't think that the VCM is the problem (at least not yet). Running without EGR is an option, but you may set other DTCs (ie. check engine light again), get a bit less fuel economy, and possibly get some light knock due to the lack of EGR to slow the burn down.

I didn't work on that SW package, but many before and after...
 

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   / I need a smart GM mechanic's help #6  
Re: I need a smart GM mechanic\'s help

This does not specifically address your problem but a suggestion. Go to www.autotap.com and look at the technical articles. You will find one that discusses why the ECM/VCM is rarely at fault. They have soft ware and adapters that make your laptop or Palm into a scan tool for a very reasonable price. Take a look at it.

Vernon
 
   / I need a smart GM mechanic's help
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Re: I need a smart GM mechanic\'s help

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do you know how many codes were set and what they were?
For example P0304 is misfire on cylinder 4. P0300 would be random misfires.

I'm not a GM mech but t aking the connector off the EGR makes me think there may be a chafed wire. If the EGR is being held open it will cause stalling and hesitation.

Have you put it back on to see if the problem comes back? )</font>

There are no code faults in regards to the miss. I do have a secondary air fault. That is the air pump which only works when the motor is cold. The pump is frozen. Plugging the EGR wire back on makes the truck run crappy again..
 
   / I need a smart GM mechanic's help
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Re: I need a smart GM mechanic\'s help

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sorry your having all the problems. I'm not a GM mechanic, though I have stayed in a Holiday Inn Express for my real job. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Seriously, The parts stor guys love to tell you that you need O2's, they dont have a clue, but they collect the money for those parts. Just because you hasve a lean/rich code normally has nothing to do with your O2's, they are simply tattle tales. If you have the codes they retrieved, I can help you figure it out. Though, it sounds like you have an EGR coming on which would show all sensors rich and certainly cause your problem. The real question is, does it run rough and stumble all the time, or is it torque related. From what I gather it will run good until the engine torques over, this would mean that you have a harness chaffe that is inadvertantly shorting the EGR control side to ground. The EGR should have B+ to it at all times, the PCM supplies ground to make it work. Trace the ground wire.

Let us know what you find. I may be off base, but thats what I read into it. )</font>

Thanks for the info on the grounding to operate it. I did see the codes for the 02 sensor. It was Bank 1 number 3. That is the 02 sensor behind the converter. The truck just stumbles along when the EGR is wired up. When disconnected the truck runs pretty much like it should. I guess a ground check is in store.
 
   / I need a smart GM mechanic's help
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Re: I need a smart GM mechanic\'s help

Eric, Thanks for the diagram. I will check it out first thing in the morning.
 
   / I need a smart GM mechanic's help
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Re: I need a smart GM mechanic\'s help

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( This does not specifically address your problem but a suggestion. Go to www.autotap.com and look at the technical articles. You will find one that discusses why the ECM/VCM is rarely at fault. They have soft ware and adapters that make your laptop or Palm into a scan tool for a very reasonable price. Take a look at it.

Vernon
)</font>

Vernon, Very interesting software. I was actually thinking of buying a meter that hooks up to that plug.
 

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