I4-292 Ford Square Baler - Help!

CMSporthorses · Oct 7, 2009

Hi Guys,

This is my second post (first one in the newbies section).....

We have a I4-292 Ford Square Baler and have lost the manual that came with it..... (which actually wasnt the manual for it but one similar).....

Shes a pretty old beast, but Hubby and a mate have got it all cleaned out, greased up and almost ready to go.

Anyone know where I can get an online manual for it??

Basically they need to know how to thread it properly.

They have it so that the strings go through to the needles properly, but are not sure where to go from there - they had to take it all apart and free up and ungunk all the knotters etc - they are all working ok now from what they can tell (all moving fine), but they need to know where they go from here to get it to pick up and all work properly.

The string is all run as it was when it was last working..... they havent actually had to rethread anything to that point (the needles) - but are lost as to what to do next.

If anyone has any suggestions, we would greatly appreciate it.

Hubbys theory is that he perhaps needs to leave a couple of feet of string hanging out and the knotters will pick it up automatically - and with no bale in it to start it - the first bale through will be a dud, and from then on in it should just pick up and be right.....

Is he correct or way off base?

There ya go, a curly one for my first question!

jsps1954 · Mar 23, 2015

did you find a manual for this? if so could I buy a copy from you?

zzvyb6 · Mar 23, 2015

Actually, these balers are self threading once the twine is routed from the twine box to the needle frame guides, through the needle eyes and tied back to the needle frame guide area (or bale adjustment cranks). When the knotter cycle is tripped (sometimes by hand the first time), the needles will bring up the twine to the knotter frame and insert it into the twine disk slots, where the twine disks will turn to capture the twine, the needles will retract and the cutoff knives will swing by and cut the twine at the knot. There is a little more involved but the initial threading is easily done one you run the twine through the needle eyes and tie it back to the fixed frame hinge point.

Depending on what kind of twine you are using ('plastic' or 'sisal') you may have to adjust spring settings on the baler. Plastic is more 'slippery' than sisal fiber, so the retention clamping force needs to be checked. The first is at the outlet of the twine box. Clamping pull-out force is generally set to about 10 pounds (check with a fish scale). Second is the billhook tongue pressure. That should be 5 - 10 lbs. Also check the force required to pull the wiper arm across the billhook heel. That's also supposed to be 5 - 10 lbs.

Check the plunger stop mechanism to make sure its able to jump into action. Sometimes you forget to look underneath and clear out the crud that's in hiding at the stop engagement springs.