Ideal TNT cylinder size for ClassIII Boomer?

BKColeman · Mar 9, 2002

My first post in the Owner's Forum! /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif The dealer called this morning and said my TC 40D was just unloaded this morning. Should be all set up and delivered by middle of next week.

On to my question, I had 3 rear remotes and hydraulic top and tilt cylinders in the package price. The dealer asked me this morning to decide what size cylinders I wanted. So, what is the "optimal" size of the cylinders for this tractor? I'm thinking length open and closed. I've got no clue really, but from reading all of the posts of people who have added TNT to their tractors later, a lot of people say "I wish my cylinder was longer/shorter than what I got."

Can anyone recommend a size? The dealer had quite a selection and seemed willing to get whatever I ask for. Also does anyone know what the size of the stock (non hydraulic) links is?

Thanks in advance,
Brad

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TC 40D w/ SuperSteer almost here! /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

kcbarnes · Mar 9, 2002

I will be watcing for that magic answer myself. I am in the process of building a top cylinder, just waiting for the welder to attach the ball end on the implement end of the cylinder. I used a 2.5" by 8" and it will have a closed length of 19" and an open length of 27". I wonder if the ideal cylinder range would be different depending on the types of attachments?

paccorti · Mar 9, 2002

I can't comment on the top cylinder but I wish I had a larger tilt cylinder. My tilt cylinder is about 2" in diameter. The power is fine but a larger cylinder would move more slowly (which is useful) and it might lessen shock loads on the hydraulics (which might cut leak down).

Peter

DocHeb · Mar 9, 2002

Is there a flow restrictor that you could put in-line with the TNT cylinder that would slow it down?

JohnInCA · Mar 9, 2002

Yes, you can get an adjustable flow control valve. I'm going to do that for my TNT. It moves too fast without one.

jinman · Mar 10, 2002

Brad, I believe you will find that your factory toplink is about 19-1/2" (minimum). If you can match it in a cylinder with an 8" throw, you will be about right. Mine is 2.5" bore x 10" throw cylinder about 21-1/2" centerline of the pins and with a 10" throw it will rotate my boxblade so the bottom touches the rear tires. You just don't need that much in my opinion. for the side link, I measured 17" on the non-adjustable one, so I would plan to use a cylinder that is about 15" long with a 6" to 8" throw. To get this small, you will probably have to go to a 2" bore or maybe even smaller. Instruct your dealer to take the screw type adjustable link and move it to the side opposite your hydraulic link so you can have that as a backup. He should use pieces from your non-adjustable side-link to make your hydraulic tilt cylinder. BTW- My toplink is rated at 4,000 lb, but you may not need that high a rating. When selecting the lift capacity of your cylinders, remember you need cylinders which can handle the maximum lift of your 3PH, but essentially your side-links only carry 1/2 the load each (of course this has some variation) and your toplink needs to be able to rotate heavy things like rotary cutters which extend far aft of the tractor and may have a lot of weight. Your dealer should be able to help you with your cylinder selection based on these criteria. Good luck and be sure to post some pictures./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

BKColeman · Mar 10, 2002

Excellent information Jim. That was the type of info I was looking for. Thanks!

I had already told the dealer I wanted to move the adjustable link to the other side. I also told him I wanted the original toplink, in case I ever had a problem with the hydraulic one. Some of the JD dealers I talked to were ordering the tractor minus the toplink and 1 side link to get the price down.

Thanks again,
Brad

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TC 40D w/ Supersteer almost here! /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif