Ignition issue

[eblanks]

Hi folks, was hoping to get some help with a problem that I'm sure is of my own doing. I have a 67 Ford 3000 gas that would not start. The original symptom is that with a brand new factory spec battery, the starter solenoid would just click but not send any juice to the starter. I replaced the solenoid, and while at it replaced both pos and neg battery cables since there was some corrosion in the connections. I tested to see if it would turn over and sure enough I am now getting juice to the starter. I then replaced the generator and voltage regulator since the battery was not charging. I also rebuilt the holley carb by cleaning all the pieces and putting a carb kit in it. So my issue after doing all this work, and taking painstaking efforts to make sure that all the wires got put on the new components in exactly the same way they came off, is that when you turn they key to "start", the tractor will turn over and crank, but as soon as the key goes back to "on" position, it dies instantly. I have double checked all wire connections that I touched and everything appears to be right. I'm suspecting this to be some kind of wiring issue, but assume that it could be something with the carb as well. Any thoughts?

 

[jimmysisson]

Not sure about your model, but that used to be blamed on a ballast resistor, the gizmo that reduces the voltage to the coil after the engine is running. It allows full voltage when the starting circuit is energized, then reverts to the lower volts. If the ballast is gone, often the power to the coil in the run position is the first thing to fail.
Jim

 

[mostly_gas]

Break out the volt meter and check the voltage through the whole ignition circuit. While the ballast resister is a likely culprit other thing such as bad keyswitch can also cause your symptoms.

 

[Down South]

I am working on a 68 4000 myself.

Get that volt meter and check the ign wire wile unhooked from the coil.
Ever seen the insides of a electric blanket? The plastic tubes crimped / heat sealed on the wires every so often?

If its a original wiring harness you will find a 12-16" tube, crimped / heat sealed, coming from around the top of the water pump area, down and behind the gov / carb area.
Then turned into a reg wire. 1 of 2 wires hooked to the coil's hot side. The other side 3rd wire goes into the dist.

This tube has the resistor in it.
Play with the key with the small sol wires off.

My tractor wouldn't turn on (ign) well not reliably.

When i tore the Org Lucas/Ford switch apart one of the terminals was greaseie burnt looking. Not making a good connection.

If you have a good switch ( not made in china ) and no power or not good power, You may have to run a new wire and add a resistor. Or swap to a coil with a internal resistor.
Or you could have a weak coil about to totally fail? That needs 12v to do anything?

But check wire first.
Switch second, with a 4-6 amp load, like a head light.

DS

 

[eblanks]

Thanks for all the responses, I must admist I've never heard of a ballast resistor before. I did some research last night and it looks like on my model it might be part of the coil. I say that because on my parts list there is no mention of a ballast resistor. But I see where some are built into the coil. I'm not against replacing the coil, I've replaced most everything else in the ignition system so that's a logical next step.

Everything was working well before the solenoid failed, so I'm left wondering what failed after adding the new solenoid and upgraded battery cables. On a tractor this old I'm sure anything is possible.

thanks again for the help, I'll break out the meter next chance I get.

 

[jinman]

I would bet that you accidently wired the ignition power to the start terminal on your ignition switch. Put a voltmeter on the positive wire coming to your coil. Put your ignition switch to run and check for voltage. I'd bet there will be none and tracing back to the ignition will show where the problem is located.

 

[eblanks]

I never actually touched the ignition switch. Is it possible that I inadvertantly knocked loose a connection, sure that's always a chance.

 

[jinman]

I never actually touched the ignition switch. Is it possible that I inadvertantly knocked loose a connection, sure that's always a chance.

Oops! I read somebody else's post and thought you had swapped the switch. Since you have not, check that all your fuses are good. Perhaps your ignition is on a separate fuse from the starter power. I don't think so, but it's worth a look-see. That or a faulty switch are the only two things I can think of that would give your symptoms. Since you don't have two wires going to your coil, you have to be sending power down that same wire from the switch. It would have to be the switch or power to the switch to cause your problem.

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks for all the responses, I must admist I've never heard of a ballast resistor before. I did some research last night and it looks like on my model it might be part of the coil. I say that because on my parts list there is no mention of a ballast resistor. But I see where some are built into the coil. I'm not against replacing the coil, I've replaced most everything else in the ignition system so that's a logical next step.

Everything was working well before the solenoid failed, so I'm left wondering what failed after adding the new solenoid and upgraded battery cables. On a tractor this old I'm sure anything is possible.

thanks again for the help, I'll break out the meter next chance I get.

ballast resistors wer eused on the older models.. that one, as has been stated has a resistor wire inline from the key to the coil.. when starting, the resistor wire is bypassed putting full battery 12v on that 6v coil it came with.. once started it gets power thru the resistor wire.

thus start and run on the key switch are 2 different hookups and do different things.. etc..

soundguy

 

[RickB]

ballast resistors wer eused on the older models.. that one, as has been stated has a resistor wire inline from the key to the coil.. when starting, the resistor wire is bypassed putting full battery 12v on that 6v coil it came with.. once started it gets power thru the resistor wire.

thus start and run on the key switch are 2 different hookups and do different things.. etc..

soundguy

And the resistance wire supplying voltage to the coil when the switch is in 'run' position surely could have failed.