I'm adding to my 2310 power steering

[etpm]

After vacillating back and forth about how to power a power steering cylinder I have decided to go with a diverter valve instead of a power steering pump.
I decided to use the tractor hydraulics after corresponding with some folks who know about Yanmar tractors and looking at just how much trouble it would be to squeeze a power steering pump into the 2310 engine compartment. It could be done and I have the wherewithal to do it. Also there was a question about which fluids would be compatible with both the power steering pump and the power steering cylinder.
So, since it looks like the 2310 has enough flow at 1000 RPM to operate both the loader and the steering simultaneously I am going to try the diverter valve route first. If it doesn't work like I want I can still use a power steering pump.
The valve and steering cylinder are both on the way and I'm excited to begin work on the conversion. Since I own a machine shop any machining or welding will be easy for me. However, I am going to try making the conversion using tools available to most do it yourself type folks. I want to be able to help anyone else who wants to add power steering to their tractor without needing to spend precious dollars getting machine work done.
I will document as well as I can the conversion. I will start work on or about August 10th.
Cheers,
Eric

 

[bmaverick]

Eric,

Should you of picked the PS pump, the John Deere J20C fluid works just fine. Thus, 1 fluid for all.

 

[bmaverick]

After vacillating back and forth about how to power a power steering cylinder I have decided to go with a diverter valve instead of a power steering pump.
I decided to use the tractor hydraulics after corresponding with some folks who know about Yanmar tractors and looking at just how much trouble it would be to squeeze a power steering pump into the 2310 engine compartment. It could be done and I have the wherewithal to do it. Also there was a question about which fluids would be compatible with both the power steering pump and the power steering cylinder.
So, since it looks like the 2310 has enough flow at 1000 RPM to operate both the loader and the steering simultaneously I am going to try the diverter valve route first. If it doesn't work like I want I can still use a power steering pump.
The valve and steering cylinder are both on the way and I'm excited to begin work on the conversion. Since I own a machine shop any machining or welding will be easy for me. However, I am going to try making the conversion using tools available to most do it yourself type folks. I want to be able to help anyone else who wants to add power steering to their tractor without needing to spend precious dollars getting machine work done.
I will document as well as I can the conversion. I will start work on or about August 10th.
Cheers,
Eric

And we all love pixs too!

 

[California]

I'm interested in how you do this project.

I have the optional dealer-installed PS on the YM186D and the cylinder dribbled. I took it off to replace seals but I'm afraid to clamp the aluminum valve in the vise, and I can't get enough force on the big nut to take it off if I don't secure the valve to something.

Then I installed another used cylinder that a member here provided. It only drips occasionally but that's still not right. A fresh new drag-link cylinder would be great.

The diverter valve provides steering pressure any time the engine is running but there's no loader or 3-point response at all below 1,000 rpm and slow below 1500. This is a nuisance. Digging the loader into a pile bogs down the engine, then no loader curl at that moment isn't productive. Likewise, backing up to engage the qhitch to something is best done slowly, but then there's no lift ability to engage the hooks.

Having power steering is great but a larger hydraulic pump might be an improvement.

 

[etpm]

Well, I now have a diverter valve and the power steering cylinder in hand. It looks like the diverter valve I bought is not adjustable so I will need to ask the guy I bought it from if it is. There is also the fact that the power steering cylinder needs oil pressure less than 1800 PSI and apparently the tractor is capable of 2000 PSI. There should be a bypass in the diverter but I just don't know, so that's another question I need to ask. The tractor has a Bulldog 285 loader so I need to figure out where it gets pressure to the valve, then follow that line back to the pump outlet. I have to make a cylinder mount that clears the oil filter before I do anything else. Then figure out where to mount the diverter valve. After all that I can figure out the plumbing. I think I will add a pressure gauge too if I can find a convenient spot to place one.
Eric

 

[California]

On the YM240 (no PS) I added a gauge at the divider block next to the transmission, when I replaced the loader control. I intended this as temporary just to see what's going on but it's still there, and very useful.

The backhoe weights so much that the hydraulic system is at its limit keeping it raised, to drive around. As the 3-point settles down I need to raise the lift lever every minute or two. This gauge is essential to maintain the 500 psi needed to resist the 3-point from settling down, while avoiding the 4000 psi that can occur if I simply pull the lift lever all the way to lift position.

I wish I had anticipated leaving the gauge on permanently and mounted it at the loader control valve. It's awkward to look down under the front of the seat to see it - don't mount yours there like I did.

Here's a post with photos, describing the gauge install.

 

[etpm]

Getting back to looking at installing the power steering after some major interruptions I noticed that that the whole cylinder moves when steering rather than just the rod. This seemed backwards to me but then since the valve is mounted to the cylinder it makes sense. When the valve actuator rod is pushed or pulled the cylinder then moves in the same direction. Eventually the cylinder catches up to the neutral position of the actuator rod and then stops.
So it looks like I need to make sure the hoses connected to the valve are arranged so as to not put any stress on the hoses and connections when the cylinder moves while at the same time making sure that the arrangement is also done in such a way as to discourage the hoses from catching any sticks and the like.
Please feel free to point out where I may be wrong in my reasoning now and later as the project continues. I will be posting pictures so there will be plenty of opportunities for comments of any kind.
Eric

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

Getting back to looking at installing the power steering after some major interruptions I noticed that that the whole cylinder moves when steering rather than just the rod. This seemed backwards to me but then since the valve is mounted to the cylinder it makes sense. When the valve actuator rod is pushed or pulled the cylinder then moves in the same direction. Eventually the cylinder catches up to the neutral position of the actuator rod and then stops.
So it looks like I need to make sure the hoses connected to the valve are arranged so as to not put any stress on the hoses and connections when the cylinder moves while at the same time making sure that the arrangement is also done in such a way as to discourage the hoses from catching any sticks and the like.
Please feel free to point out where I may be wrong in my reasoning now and later as the project continues. I will be posting pictures so there will be plenty of opportunities for comments of any kind.
Eric

If you zoom in on my 2310 you will see the cylinder is fixed on my setup.

 

[etpm]

Is the valve on your setup affixed to the cylinder?

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

Is the valve on your setup affixed to the cylinder?

No, just the 2 hoses. I'm too green with tractor mechanics to make any judgements, is having the hoses articulate a normal feature. Ask me anything about Jeep TJ's though.