impeller kit

[flatlander dave]

I have a front blower on my tractor. Its a new erskine 72" 540 pto. My problem is it doesn't throw snow very far and plugs on wet snow. Found an impeller kit online. Idea is to create seal so snow doesn't build up in shoot. I measured a gap of over 1/2" between impeller and housing. Any one have experience with kits? Thanks.

 

[devildog1]

Humm,
according to your profile you have enough of a tractor to power thar blower. Just a few questions, are augers and second stage fan free from rust? Rusty spots seem to grab and hold snow so it builds up, use some Fluid Film in chute and fan assembly's, are a plus to stop snow from sticking,(Pam also works) Are you sure all shear pins are ok? And always keep up your rpms when starting to blow snow and a few seconds after to clear blower. Hope this helps, there is a dealer here on TBN who makes those kits for snow blowers, do a search.
DevilDog

 

[slowzuki]

They all plug in wet snow, best you can do is keep everything painted up, keep the rpm's up, and start into the snow aggressive then try to blow into some deeper snow that has frozen to finish off.

Blowing just a little snow will plug the chute in no time flat.

Wet snow won't throw like dry snow, really wet snow will barely make it past the edge of even a good blower. Need a rotating side chute for that stuff.

I have a front blower on my tractor. Its a new erskine 72" 540 pto. My problem is it doesn't throw snow very far and plugs on wet snow. Found an impeller kit online. Idea is to create seal so snow doesn't build up in shoot. I measured a gap of over 1/2" between impeller and housing. Any one have experience with kits? Thanks.

 

[Blast Chamber]

I assume you are talking about the kit sold by Clarence's Small Engines. I have one of those kits on my walk-behind LawnBoy 8HP snowblower. It was the best money I've ever spent. The kit made a night and day difference in how far the snow is thrown. If you have a 1/2" gap between the impeller and the housing I'm sure the kit will over some improvement, plus it will scrape the housing clean of sticking snow.

 

[Craig Clayton]

The clearance of 1/2 " on your impeller is a common range on alot of snow equipment. I can see an improvement on dry powder snow but then that kind never plugs up the chutes. Most wet snow plugs after it leaves the impeller and touches the sides of the chute. If the clearance is too tight stones from a gravel drivway could be a problem.

Craig Clayton

 

[leonz]

As Blast Chamber has detailed so well, the impeller kit clears all the material
out of the impeller drum as it becomes a heat sink and the friction created by the actual casting of the snow fall creates a lot of heat by friction and the snow will melt in the impeller drum as you use it and if left out will eventually create frozen puddle in the impeller drum.

Clarences Impeller Kit will be money/$30.00 USD for your snow caster.

Dont hesitate to use cheap cooking spray or WD40 to aid in snow casting,
I can tell you that fluid film works wonders and to qoute Kenny Cartman its KICK A** for throwing snow with a small or big snow caster.

 

[PILOON]

Another thing I noticed is the chutes are slightly tapered being narrower near exit.
My guess is that this is an attempt to increase velocity and hence distance.
Downside is the taper works against you in wet snow.

 

[leonz]

Another thing I noticed is the chutes are slightly tapered being narrower near exit.
My guess is that this is an attempt to increase velocity and hence distance.
Downside is the taper works against you in wet snow.

Riveting the slick sheet from FarmTek to the chute and spout works nicely

 

[PILOON]

Riveting the slick sheet from FarmTek to the chute and spout works nicely

Agreed!
I also did a lining job on a blower once and it really helped.

Look at most of the newer walkbehinds--all with plastic chutes!

If time permits I may just line my current blower but I wonder if the work is worth it as I generally only see 2-3 troublesome wet dumpings and generally if I wait a bit the snow dries enough to not clog.

The only real necessity is heavy wet dumping followed by a serious drop in temps.
In that case it is do or die as the next day it is hardened cement.
Generally however even waiting til evening is enough to make the wet stuff workable (blowable)

 

[leonz]

Hello Piloon,

you may just want to lay in a supply of WD40 in gallon containers as it works wonders for the wet stuff. I used it for the snow pups and the difference was like night and day with the power curve paddles on the newer snow pup as well as the older one.

One of those "Vaper" Brand spray cans that can be air charged would be perfect for the WD40 and Fluid film; the big cans of cooking spray also work very well when you have them. We bought ours cooking spray at Sams Club in 2 packs and it does work but you have to recoat the surfaces once in while while working.:thumbsup: