I have one major complaint about my new JD 47" front mount snowblower - the disharge chute rotation angle is limited to about +/- 85 degrees. Often it is nice to be able to angle the chute slightly back, but this snow-blower didn't allow this.
I am not sure if the limitation is for safety, or just a lame design, but it is really annoying to me.
My opinion on the safety issue is that I think it is safer to have better control over the aim of the chute so I can aim it in the safest direction for the specific situation. Of course it should never be made to point straight back, but as long as it stays 30 degrees from straight back, it should be fine. Unlike a walk-behind snow-blower, the operator is always directly behind the blower in the seat of the tractor.
I decided to see if the mechanism could be modified to increase the angle.
As it turns out, it was rather simple:
(I didn't have the digital camera handy - maybe I can post some photos later in the week if anybody is interested).
1. Remove the four bolts holding the balck cover over the mechanism.
2. Detach the cables from the chute and then unthread them from the pulleys and their anchor holes and remove them completely from the assembly.
3. Remove the bolts holding the pulleys on each the end of the moving frame.
4. The pulleys are not centered on the bushings. (one side is up, the other is down in the stock assembly). I pressed the pulleys even further towards the one end of the bushings. This step could probably be skipped.
( 4a: The bushings on my brand-new pulleys were already frozen. It looks like the design was too snug to start with. I reamed them out slightly larger and applied liberal amounts of grease.)
5. Make a mark alongside and just inside the inside corner of the moving frame on the main housing betweens the moving frame and the cylinder when the cylinder is fully retracted.
6. Drill a 3/16 hole in the main housing at the mark (on the welded seam if necessary). This becomes the new anchor point for the cable - make sure the moving frame will not cover the hole when fully retracted. It might have been easier to just remove the two more bolts and slide the cylinder out of the way, but I was able to make the hole without removing it. Be careful not to scratch the cylinder shaft with the drill bit - that will eventually lead to damaged seals and leaking!
7. Drill another hole on the other side about an inch from the center pulley, also alongside the moving frame.
8. Reassemble the puleys with the pulley towrds the upper portion of the bushing.
9 Slide the cable through the holes from the underside of the top of the housing.
10. Wrap the cables:
- Around the bushing under the outer pulley.
- Around the center pulley.
- Around the outer pulley, this time in the pulley groove.
- Around the lower portion of the chute.
- Anchor at the closer cable anchor.
[ The cables on my unit were just barely long enough to reach. I suspect on some, it may be necessary to purchase some new longer pieces of cable and crimp on some end-anchors.]
11. The cable now makes three trips around the pulleys instead of two. Accordingly, the rotation angle of the chute is now increased by 50% to +/- 125 degrees or so (depends on how tightly you are able to string the cable).
12. Reassemble covers.
The cable will rub on itself slightly more, and will wear out quicker, but at $0.19 / foot for new cable at the hardware store, I would be happy to replace it every season if needed.
- Rick
I am not sure if the limitation is for safety, or just a lame design, but it is really annoying to me.
My opinion on the safety issue is that I think it is safer to have better control over the aim of the chute so I can aim it in the safest direction for the specific situation. Of course it should never be made to point straight back, but as long as it stays 30 degrees from straight back, it should be fine. Unlike a walk-behind snow-blower, the operator is always directly behind the blower in the seat of the tractor.
I decided to see if the mechanism could be modified to increase the angle.
As it turns out, it was rather simple:
(I didn't have the digital camera handy - maybe I can post some photos later in the week if anybody is interested).
1. Remove the four bolts holding the balck cover over the mechanism.
2. Detach the cables from the chute and then unthread them from the pulleys and their anchor holes and remove them completely from the assembly.
3. Remove the bolts holding the pulleys on each the end of the moving frame.
4. The pulleys are not centered on the bushings. (one side is up, the other is down in the stock assembly). I pressed the pulleys even further towards the one end of the bushings. This step could probably be skipped.
( 4a: The bushings on my brand-new pulleys were already frozen. It looks like the design was too snug to start with. I reamed them out slightly larger and applied liberal amounts of grease.)
5. Make a mark alongside and just inside the inside corner of the moving frame on the main housing betweens the moving frame and the cylinder when the cylinder is fully retracted.
6. Drill a 3/16 hole in the main housing at the mark (on the welded seam if necessary). This becomes the new anchor point for the cable - make sure the moving frame will not cover the hole when fully retracted. It might have been easier to just remove the two more bolts and slide the cylinder out of the way, but I was able to make the hole without removing it. Be careful not to scratch the cylinder shaft with the drill bit - that will eventually lead to damaged seals and leaking!
7. Drill another hole on the other side about an inch from the center pulley, also alongside the moving frame.
8. Reassemble the puleys with the pulley towrds the upper portion of the bushing.
9 Slide the cable through the holes from the underside of the top of the housing.
10. Wrap the cables:
- Around the bushing under the outer pulley.
- Around the center pulley.
- Around the outer pulley, this time in the pulley groove.
- Around the lower portion of the chute.
- Anchor at the closer cable anchor.
[ The cables on my unit were just barely long enough to reach. I suspect on some, it may be necessary to purchase some new longer pieces of cable and crimp on some end-anchors.]
11. The cable now makes three trips around the pulleys instead of two. Accordingly, the rotation angle of the chute is now increased by 50% to +/- 125 degrees or so (depends on how tightly you are able to string the cable).
12. Reassemble covers.
The cable will rub on itself slightly more, and will wear out quicker, but at $0.19 / foot for new cable at the hardware store, I would be happy to replace it every season if needed.
- Rick