Installing Hardwood

   / Installing Hardwood #1  

erda

Bronze Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
64
Location
Alberta
Tractor
Kubota B2601
As our build continues, we are discussing details with the builder. They are telling us that the hardwood needs to be installed perpendicular to the floor joists. This works out fine on the main floor, but may not on the second floor.

If installed perpendicular to the joists on the second floor, the hardwood will always be running in the direction of the short axis of rooms, and across the hallway. (Hope that makes sense).

So, is it nessecary to run hardwood perpendicular to the joists, or should it be oriented to parallel the "long axis" of rooms and hall?

I should clarify that it is engineered hardwood, 3/4 thick and 3 1/8 wide.

Thanks.
 
   / Installing Hardwood #2  
Per a book of mine entitled "A Complete Guide to Layout, Installation, & Finishing Wood Flooring" by Charles Peterson - he states the following: "For structural reasons, strip and plank flooring should be installed perpendicular to the joists. If you end up running the flooring parallel to the joists, the subfloor must be a minimum of 1 1/8" thick when the joists are on 16" centers or there must be blocking between the joists to keep the subfloor from sagging. The blocking is generally spaced no more than 24" apart. If the framing is wood trusses - check with the manufacturer for recommendations on how to add blocking. Strip or plank flooring can be laid diagonally to the joists without modifying the subfloor."

Hope this is of some value to you.
 
   / Installing Hardwood #3  
For sure preferable perpendicular to joists for load spreading reasons mainly., but at times I've done the other.
I agree in a hallway short would look weird.
Don't forget felt paper underlay or better the foam underlay they suggest for engineered products, also leave a slight gap where the product meets the walls (for expansion).
If you are laying over 3/4 ply on 16" joists you probably will never see the difference.
 
   / Installing Hardwood #4  
As our build continues, we are discussing details with the builder. They are telling us that the hardwood needs to be installed perpendicular to the floor joists. This works out fine on the main floor, but may not on the second floor.

If installed perpendicular to the joists on the second floor, the hardwood will always be running in the direction of the short axis of rooms, and across the hallway. (Hope that makes sense).

So, is it nessecary to run hardwood perpendicular to the joists, or should it be oriented to parallel the "long axis" of rooms and hall?

I should clarify that it is engineered hardwood, 3/4 thick and 3 1/8 wide.

Thanks.
"Engineered" might be give you a longer span than conventional flooring lumber but not much IMHO. I think that "long axis" thing is more "appearance" than structural. If it bothers you then a sub-floor of quality 3/4" TG plywood should be enough to let you do whatever you want.
 
   / Installing Hardwood #5  
In my experience as a GC (not as a flooring specialist)...the wider the span you run the flooring with the joists the sooner you will see why the min 1-1/8 sub floor is recommended...Best advice IMO is to check with the manufacturer of the flooring and abide by their recommendations...

Good luck...
 
   / Installing Hardwood #6  
You could add another 1/2" subfloor (or whatever is required) to get up to the min 1-1/8". It may very well require reworking the stairs a bit to make them meet code due to the extra height, but not the end of the world, especially if it saves you from looking at "wrong-way" flooring the rest of your days... MUCH Easier if the stairs are still rough and not fully finished, of course! We did run our small second floor wood floor area parallel to the joists (low traffic library area). I'm not real worried about it, but time will tell. That was full 3/4" hardwood (White oak), too. The much larger main floor was run perpendicular to joists. In both cases it was because that direction made the most logical sense.
 
   / Installing Hardwood #7  
In my experience as a GC (not as a flooring specialist)...the wider the span you run the flooring with the joists the sooner you will see why the min 1-1/8 sub floor is recommended...Best advice IMO is to check with the manufacturer of the flooring and abide by their recommendations...

Good luck...
Checking the manufacturer's specs is very good advice. The engineered products are often guaranteed but have to follow the specs to qualify. We ran parallel to the joists in this house (something about direction of the natural light and appearance) and I researched it carefully. It's a big room and we have not had any problems. We used a wide plank laminate (because of the under floor radiant heat) and maybe that makes a difference.
 
   / Installing Hardwood
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Thanks.

I've been doing a LOT of reading, and much of it appears to state that perpendicular to the joists is "preferred"' but with a minimum 3/4 plywood sub floor (which we have) it is "okay" to install the flooring parallel to the joists. Other sources state to install perpendicular and make no mention of any other way, and some make no mention of "direction".

Hence my confusion.
 
   / Installing Hardwood #9  
Thanks.

I've been doing a LOT of reading, and much of it appears to state that perpendicular to the joists is "preferred"' but with a minimum 3/4 plywood sub floor (which we have) it is "okay" to install the flooring parallel to the joists. Other sources state to install perpendicular and make no mention of any other way, and some make no mention of "direction".

Hence my confusion.
Our laminate went together to form a single floating floor (no nails) over 3/4" T&G plywood and all pieces are locked into adjacent planks...took more than a "click" to install (and in fact was a bit of a PITA to install). As such I guess it didn't really matter. A nail-down product would be different I think.
 

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