Insulation for interior room

   / Insulation for interior room #1  

Setteduke

New member
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Feb 9, 2020
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7
Location
Great Valley, NY
Tractor
Ford 2120 1995. Kubota 900UTV. Ford 555D 96
I have finished an interior room in my outbuilding. Temp spaced to sleep/live as we build our house. Then will be a many cave. Need to insulate. Walls are 2x6, ceiling is 2x10. It has two exterior and two interior walls. Any suggestion on insulating the floor? Also, what should I do for flooring? It has been enclosed. Might make some sleeping area on the top. Not sure yet. Thanks for any input.
 

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   / Insulation for interior room #2  
Me...I'd just throw down some 2" foam board, and put the cheapest vinyl click lock flooring I could get. Would be more than enough of a thermal break from the concrete, and easiest to clean up. Also wouldn't stick up above the door threshold (assuming those studs are 8' and not cut down).
 
   / Insulation for interior room #3  
Me...I'd just throw down some 2" foam board, and put the cheapest vinyl click lock flooring I could get. Would be more than enough of a thermal break from the concrete, and easiest to clean up. Also wouldn't stick up above the door threshold (assuming those studs are 8' and not cut down).

That would work.
Me? I would do carpet with high grade pad makes a nice softer walking surface for cold, tired feet. Also dampens sounds & vibrations. And its cheap. Im a cheap skate, so :laughing:
 
   / Insulation for interior room #4  
I’d go with the heavy pad and carpet as well. I’m not cheap but I can’t stand spending money.
 
   / Insulation for interior room #5  
Is it really cold where you live? sheets of foam with plywood on top and then a vinyl floating floor is pretty easy to do. I personaly want tile floors where I live. Nothing cleans easier or looks better.

R-19 fiberglass in the walls.

I would add another row of 2x10's around the perimiter of your roof and blow in insulation. Fiberglass beween ceiling joists will have too many voides, even is you do it in two layers and change direction with each layer. Nothing is more cost effective then blown in. Home Depot will let you use the machine for free if you buy 10 bags of insulation. I think Attic Cat is the best out there and the cost is the same as the nasty stuff when you do the math of how much coverage you get. If you don't use all 10 bags, wait a couple weeks after returning the machine, and then return them then. It's kind of a loophole, trick to ge the machine for free if you don't need ten bags.

Nice job on the framing.
 
   / Insulation for interior room #6  
Concrete floor over a good earth base may not need a lot of insulation, you just want to break the effect of the ground temperature (unless you're in a hot environment and would benefit from the free cooling and also have a way to control humidity to keep it in a safe zone). If the concrete has a good vapor barrier underneath then I wouldn't worry about moisture. If not, then I'd make sure to put something down. There is a rolled closed cell foam product made to go under floating hardwood flooring that serves as vapor barrier and cushion for the floor. Otherwise plastic sheet or foam board would work. In the old days we would just paint the floor. I remember doing several carpet jobs where we'd paint the floor, wait a few days, then put down padding and carpet. Always worked great.

Be warned, setting carpet tack strips down on concrete can be a major pain in the butt. We would always use construction adhesive as backup since you couldn't count on all the nails getting a bite. It was a miserable job sometimes.

If looks don't matter, I'd go with whatever is cheapest and easiest to install. Hard to beat a roll of padding and carpet when it comes to price.

Another option may be carpet squares. You put down contact adhesive on the concrete with a grooved trowel, give it some time to tack up, then lay the squares down. Carpet squares cost more but are super easy to work with. And if needed, you can peel up individual squares and replace them to deal with spills, stains, damage, etc.
 
   / Insulation for interior room #7  
Depends where you live and the thermal cycle of your concrete. Down here in Mississippi the cool concrete is a benefit.
 
   / Insulation for interior room #8  
I agree with all the above mentions on where you live, climate & the existing construction of the current building can determine a lot.

Also, being this is going to be a permanent area; "Temp spaced to sleep/live as we build our house then will be a man cave", I would consider that also. Depending on what your ultimate flooring choice might be for the future man cave area may influence what I would install now (as to not have to do something twice).

Also how are you conditioning this space? I'm guessing it will be conditioned as it is not really a temp space but also future man cave?
 
   / Insulation for interior room
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks for all the replies: To answer to the questions:

Location is Western New York - Great Valley - can get quite cold
I have about 4’6” head space up top - thought about a mattress or two for summer night crashing - need to build stairs
Eventually will run a line from propane tank to room for heat -
In summer just open windows and maybe a screen door in back - there are two windows and a service door exit
I am leaning towards the rigid foam and some cheap flooring

Thank you again.
 

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