International Farmall 1066, free but needs repair!!

[Richard]

I'm presuming it's a geared machine?

Might want to check the shifter for it being sloppy.

(I bought a used 1066 at the end of last fall)

It wouldn't change ranges, it MIGHT go into gears but in general, everything was flopping around. Turns out one of the springs inside the "floor" cover was gone so the levers were flopping around a bit.

Given what I went through, if it needs anything, just PLAN on dealing with both. From what I learned, the shift levers ride on a cylinder. I mushroomed a 1/2" Craftsman 10" ratchet extension trying to beat it out.

If you find those wobbly and decide to replace them, you should be aware that INSIDE the gear selector cylinder is a bushing that needs to be moved to the new cylinder (unless you want to pay something like $40 for a new one). I don't recall the size, but if I DO recall, I used a 10mm socket which fit perfectly inside the hole and from the opposite side, used it to tap the bushing out.

I'm getting mine ironed out now that the weather is turning and it's drying up outside. I've been refusing to drive machine to driveway as our ground is saturated and it would just rip it to shreads.

Mine has a straight pipe and is LOUDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD

Get some good hearing protection.

 

[art]

The problems with the steering and brakes go to the MCV valve and often along with worn pumps will take out the Torque Ampifier faster then using the TA as a brake. Farmers or operators that use it as a brake often only get about 2,500 hours out of a TA otherwise they very well will go 7 to 8 thousand hours. The tractor is free! Worst case with new clutch installed as well you will have about five thousand invested by a dealer. Other shops might be less but most do less and I know what we check and do to not be doing it again in a short time!!

 

[pmsmechanic]

I'm just here to learn something.

 

[xtxpete]

I think you got good advice, but even though it's free, as soon as you spend $$$$ on repairs it's cost you something! No one mentioned checking the engine drain plug for antifreeze before you open your wallet! The wet sleeves are know to pit and leak if coolant isn't maintained. But sounds like an opportunity!

 

[RickB]

I think you got good advice, but even though it's free, as soon as you spend $$$$ on repairs it's cost you something! No one mentioned checking the engine drain plug for antifreeze before you open your wallet! The wet sleeves are know to pit and leak if coolant isn't maintained. But sounds like an opportunity!

Excellent point.

 

[Richard]

Here's one for you all.. happened just today.

I got my 1066 last fall so I've barely used it....indeed, took time to get the shift stuff fixed.

Mating it with a 15' hydraulic rotary cutter. Today, went out to tractor to add fluid to mower and I was going to try to adjust the clutch (MCV valve) as my clutch dump valve needed adjusting.

While sitting on tractor, I engaged PTO lever... didn't think the blades turned on. Looked closer and they didn't. Added the hydraulic fluid that I was planning on adding.....still nothing.

Long story short, I noticed the 540 PTO wasn't turning. The 1000 PTO WAS turning but the 540 wasn't.

Now I evidently have to yank the PTO out to see what's going on inside there.

PTO was working absolutely fine a couple days ago. No untoward sounds, no grinds, no snaps crackle nor pops.... it's almost like it blew a fuse (if it were only that easy!!)