Is It Just Me?

   / Is It Just Me? #1  

Iplayfarmer

Super Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
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5,263
Location
Idaho
Tractor
Massey Ferguson 1215, Case 801B
Is it just me or is diamond plate particularly hard to cut with a torch?

Understand that I am a novice on many things including running an oxy/fuel torch. I thought I had the hang of cutting until I made 3 or 4 cuts on some scrap diamond plate that I have laying around. I lose the cut everytime I hit one of the diamonds. The problem is that on a diamond plate there are two thicknesses of metal, the plate and the raised diamonds.

Any suggestions are welcomed. I'm running oxy/propane at 35 psi and 5 psi respectively. I'm using a 1NX propane tip on a Harris cutting attachment.
 
   / Is It Just Me?
  • Thread Starter
#2  
I forgot to mention that the diamond plate is about 3/16" thick in the non-diamond field.
 
   / Is It Just Me? #3  
Farmer, I don't recall having any problems cutting d-plate. My set up is oxy/acet 20psi and 7-10psi with a 0 or 1 tip...I think. You might try flipping it over and cut from the smooth side and see what happens. Seems a little frivilous but maybe might do the trick. Is it pretty "scaly" with rust? :confused:
 
   / Is It Just Me? #5  
As Jayste says, flipping it over will help, but the scale is probably the main culprit. But what are you exact symptoms? That may help identify another issue. Got pics?
 
   / Is It Just Me?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
As Jayste says, flipping it over will help, but the scale is probably the main culprit. But what are you exact symptoms? That may help identify another issue. Got pics?

The first, most obvious symptom is that I lose the cut often when I move the torch over a diamond. I have to back up and pre-heat again in order to get the cut going again. The other problem I have is that the molten metal puddles behind the torch. I can work around this as the piece still breaks off easily, an the slag left behind chips off or grinds of easily.

I don't have pics because I've already ground the surfaces in preparation for using them. If I make another cut in the near future, I'll post a pic.
 
   / Is It Just Me? #7  
I am by no means a oxy/propane expert as I grew up on an oxy/acy rig and have just recently started using propane, but I'll throw out my 2 cents.

Oxy propane is way more finnikey about setting up properly than ace.

First I'd try running at 8-10psi propane and 40 oxy. This has worked best for me.

Second, when setting up the torch, I was used to acetelyene, where you bring the flame all the way back to the tip and then add the oxy just until the inner cone dissappears. With the Propane, I leve the propane flame about 1/4" off the tip. And then add oxy. When the inner cone dissappears, go just a little more.

Once I start preheating, I sometimes have to adjust the oxygen a little in either direction. You can tell immediatly at the color changes of the steel when you have the hottest possible flame.

Hope you can understand what I am trying to say. Good luck
 
   / Is It Just Me? #9  
From the sound of it, the pressure is either too low on the oxy or the scale is preventing the unit from getting a good preheat. If the metal is real thin...Point the torch into the direction of the cut, the slag should fly forward and not reattach itself to the metal. Sometimes thin material will melt itself back together if the slag doesn't clear completely and the metal swells from the heat.
 
   / Is It Just Me? #10  
Set your torch up as LD1 said and angle your torch toward your travel. If the steel is rusty and pitted with rust hit both sides with a wire wheel. A spot of heavy rust will stop a cut in its tracks and rust on the back side of a cut will cause it to blow back instead of through the plate.

Dan
 

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