Is my 424 to small for a 5 foot brushog-

Tractorable · Aug 21, 2018

Joedel25 said:
New to the forum, just received my 424 today with a 60” brush hog, I also got the FEL , front snowblower and pallet forks.Mowing the long wet grass didn’t phase the tractor in the slightest, going into the never mowed back hay field didn’t loose any power with the tractor. Only a couple spots with standing water did the tractor come out of the PTO range on the tac.

Congrats on the new 424! What were your reasons for choosing the new Yanmar?

Joedel25 · Aug 22, 2018

Tractorable said:
Congrats on the new 424! What were your reasons for choosing the new Yanmar?

The true reason is that the past winter my plow truck got stuck so many times from the wind drifts there was a 1 month period I walked 200 yards to my house with snow shoes on! I live on 20 acres in upstate New York on top of one of the higher hills in the area. So I knew I needed a tractor with a front snowblower for the winter. I looked at Yanmar and kabota and new holland as those were my closest dealers. I did a lot of reading on this forum and narrowed it down to kubota and Yanmar. The kubota dealer in my area is known for being kind of a dick, the Yanmar dealer is a father son business with a good reputation. That paired with the fact that Yanmar 424 was about 5k cheaper with more accessories helped lead me to my final choice. TL I was able to get for 16.5, front snow blower was 4900, 5 brush hog was 1200, pallet forks were 800.

I wanted to step up to the yt, but couldn稚 justify the 9k bump for the same load out of stuff. Plus to not gain any significant weight in the FEL ,I didn稚 see the extra Rear PTO power as something I really needed.

I chose the brush hog over the soft cab as my lawn tractor died. I hope this winter doesn稚 make me regret that

CobyRupert · Aug 22, 2018

Jam242ti said:
bebop86, after I read and responded to this post something didn't sit right with me so I decided to test my own notions of my 424's performance running a 48 inch rotary mower...

..When mowing straight up the grade with my 424 all goes well until about 2/3rds of the way then the tractor starts to bog heading to a stall. If I let off the throttle and let the engine build rpms and then continue all is fine. The rpm loss/gain is not linear but comes on very quickly and if I don't stop and let the rpms build up to operating levels the tractor will definitely stall and once I let off the throttle rpms build quickly (almost instantaneously) and once under way the remaining climb is easy. My earlier report was based how I used the tractor to mow and I guess I naturally approach mowing hills using the method of least resistance. I have mowed uphill on another part of my property but due to safety concerns I creep very slowly and never experienced bogging even though it is a longer steeper hill. I hope this helps and sorry for the earlier exuberance in reporting my tractor's performance.

What your describing is when you try to climb a hill in too fast of a "gear". It seems like you're using the hydro pedal like the gas pedal of a car or truck when you shouldn't. It seems you have the hydrostatic pedal pressed too far down (think of it as being in too high a "gear") to climb the hill.
When you let up on the pedal, think of that as shifting to a lower "gear", and your engine rpms return to the rpm set by the (true) engine throttle level as you describe.
The hydrostatic pedal is not a engine throttle pedal like in your car or truck. When you go up a hill and tractor whines and slows, don't press the pedal more like you would with a car or truck, but let up on the pedal to go up in a lower "gear" and you'll have all the torque you need and engine rpms won't drop.

Jam242ti · Aug 22, 2018

CobyRupert said:
What your describing is when you try to climb a hill in too fast of a "gear". It seems like you're using the hydro pedal like the gas pedal of a car or truck when you shouldn't. It seems you have the hydrostatic pedal pressed too far down (think of it as being in too high a "gear") to climb the hill.
When you let up on the pedal, think of that as shifting to a lower "gear", and your engine rpms return to the rpm set by the (true) engine throttle level as you describe.
The hydrostatic pedal is not a engine throttle pedal like in your car or truck. When you go up a hill and tractor whines and slows, don't press the pedal more like you would with a car or truck, but let up on the pedal to go up in a lower "gear" and you'll have all the torque you need and engine rpms won't drop.

Never thought of it that way and it makes great sense, thanks. I have been driving hydrostatic ZRT mowers and a JD lawn tractor for 20 years on all kinds of hills and never put it together with the description you just provided. Interestingly with all the **** rain we have been getting in NE PA I have been having some stalling issues with tall, wet, heavy grass going up hill. I will deploy your logic this weekend. Thanks, Jim.