Tires Iseki 1910f turf tires?

jaybirdt · May 26, 2003

Hi all,
If this was already posted sorry but I didnt see it anywhere.I was wondering if anyone had any info on changing over to turf tires on my 1910 4wd Iseki? The front tires are 6-14 and the rears are 8.3/8-24. I would like to put on a finish mower but the rice tires would rototill my lawn.Im in the process of changing the bushings and seals right now.So far disassembly was easy tomorrow I will find out what the machine shop wants to make and replace the bushings. Thanks in advance Jason

DavidD · May 26, 2003

Just curious, which bushings and seals are you replacing? My 1610 has a leak where the front wheels pivot. Also the front axle on mine has grease in it instead of oil, is this normal or a disguise for a leaky front end?
Still have rice tires on mine.

EFC · May 27, 2003

In past conversations people have been very upset about grease in the front hub assemblies. As far as I'm concerned anything is better than nothing. The front hubs are "low speed" and I can’t imagine that grease would do any more damage than the Japanese farmers have already done. Most highway vehicles have grease packed hubs anyway. If it is going to have grease in it just make sure the grease is clean.

DavidD · May 27, 2003

Thanks EFC, I was thinking along the same lines. I see no need in getting upset, it is a "used" older tractor.
I made an adapter and shot three tubes of grease in at the plug on top of the front axle left side. This is the plug which showed me the grease in the axle. The excess came out the vent on top of the diferential housing. It looked brownish but not gritty.
Is there a better way? Should I flush it out with something?
The bushing which pivots {where the steering arm attaches} appears to be worn, allowing the hub to move which then drips grease from the lower seal after extended use. Is this bushing a replaceable part or just part of having an older tractor?
Thanks
David

jaybirdt · May 29, 2003

David,
Just got back from the machine shop no go on the bushings he said they were steel with a bronze lining and graphite impregnated. He could make them but they might only last a year. I ended up ordering the bushings 2 upper and 2 lower from Derrick at Rainbow Distributors in Hawaii. They were 20$ for the upper and 25$ for the lower. Seemed to me alot cheaper than replacing the gears if they wore due to being out of alignment.

DavidD · May 30, 2003

Just curious, were they able to identify what you needed by phone , or do I need a part number to order a set?
Thanks
David

larso1 · May 30, 2003

Hi guys,
I'm in the same boat as you on the front steering bushings, both lower and upper on my Iseki TS1610F. My mechanic friend also said he thought the original plain bearings / bushings on the lower pivot (approx. 2"dia.) were steel-backed with a softer bearing material, and predicted that bronze bushings would fail early. I have a copy of the parts manual at home so I will contact Rainbow for a quote and order them. (I was surprised they are only in the $25 to $20 range....is that for one or two each?). I was wondering, JBirdt, if your machinist is going to sleeve the shaft (king pin?) that fits inside the bearing, or if you can get oversized bearings from Rainbow. The pins on mine are worn out-of-round about 2-thou inches and are probably undersized too, so we may have to live with some extra clearance?

Bill in CO

jaybirdt · May 31, 2003

Bill,
I think we may have to live with a little play in the steering.I asked about the kingpin and the pitman arm if thats even what they call it and they said it was very hard to find those parts. I was thinking of having the kingpin re-sleaved but Im not sure if its worth trying if they had to remove alot of the kingpin to install a sleave.Dont want to find out how hard they are to find if one was to break. I was able to buy the oil seals locally for 7 dollars each. But now I have to wait 2 weeks for the bushings and just got a new back blade for my birthday sucks to be me I guess. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

larso1 · Jun 2, 2003

Thanks for the info Jaybirdt,

I too am afraid there might not be enough material on the pin to turn down and resleeve. I also note that there was a short, thin sleeve installed (pressed on) at the upper end of the pin that contacts the upper seal and protects the pin surface from wear...kind of a hardened sacrificial element. I found a close replacement for this from Chicago Rawhide and Federal-Mogul, marketed as a "speedy-sleeve." These are pricy too at about $35/ea. but haven't decided on whether to get them, or if I really need them since I plan on keeping the front end lubed and clean anyway.

Bill