Iseki 48" tiller to JD-2320

JD-2320_1 · Apr 10, 2011

I just bought a Iseki tiller SR 1310P CDE for my JD-2320.

The tiller is in fair condition but has been used, maybe abused a little.

I thought it would just hook up to my Cat 1 3-point hitch but unfortunately does not.

All of the pin sizes are right for the Cat -1 but the lower lift arm spacing to connect to the tiller is too narrow on the tiller, plus the drive shaft is too short as well as the top link.

I suspect that the lower lift arms that came with my JD may be for a different machine as I have always had difficulties hooking up to my implements. The spacing is fine but the lower lift arms sit at a weird angle and rub on the tires.

I have searched the internet and found that most lower lift arms are basically straight with a 45 degree at the implement end then a return to the connector. My lower lift arms have several bends one at each end as well as one in the middle.

So I am wondering if the tiller is compatible with the JD or is it a case of not having the right 3 point hitch?

Any feedback or advice is appreciated.

kennyd · Apr 10, 2011

Welcome to TBN

In this case, a picture (or 2) is worth 1000 words. Please post some up.

Have you had the 2320 since new?

Ductape · Apr 11, 2011

I'm with Kenny........ a few pictures would be great. It almost sounds like the tiller may be designed for a two point hitch...... which are common in Japan.

JD-2320_1 · Apr 11, 2011

Hi,

Thanks for the replys.

It is a 3 point hitch type, it came new with an Iseki tractor which has a 3 point hitch, the guy that I bought it from still has the tractor.

I have owned the JD-2320 since new, and it is a great machine.

The 3 point hitch that my tractor came with is the same hitch that is shown in the manual so it must be correct.

I will post photos of the tiller tonight .

Cheers

Maxfli · Apr 13, 2011

This probably doesn't pertain to your situtation just my little bit of experience. I had an old Bolen Iseki 17HP tractor. The guy I bought it from had and old Tiller that was never really married to the tractor as it was designed for a 2 point or sleeve hitch as I remember. So I hired a welding guy to convert it to a 3 point attachment. It didn't really hold up well. Probably doesn't pertain to your tiller as it is already configured for 3 point. One other thing to look at is PTO speed. My Iseki (as I remember) had a multi speed PTO so it could be shifted to low med or high speed. Your JD is 540 RPM only. If the Iseki tiller is designed to run on a 1000RPM PTO you may not get the tiller performance you are expecting when it is on your JD.

bjr · Apr 14, 2011

If it's the common "grey market tiller" and you have a utility tractor to match it to. Seriously rebuild all the draft lugs (pulling lugs). I rebuilt 3 of them and totally strip the tiller down the bare tube and started back with 1/2" plate. Took about a week of fabricating but at the end they were stout tillers to pull with a utility tractor. Now the one bolt boxed tines are another story by itself, those go away fast. I had to build a whole new tiller shaft with flanged mounted tines. Finally have a decent tiller. Those grey market machines were designed for rice patty work. They destroy themselves in any kinda rocky soil. bjr

JD-2320_1 · Apr 14, 2011

Hi,

Yes I can see my error in purchasing this tiller.
The top shroud is beat pretty well and it is the single bolt box tine type.

I talked to the JD dealer on Monday and they said that it is common to have to use a different length drive shaft for attachments.

The lower lift arm length and configurations differ depending on the make of tractor. The lower lift arm on the Iseki tractor that was married to this tiller were straight which is why the draft lugs are spaced 19" inches apart opposed to the Jd which is 24".

Live and learn I guess, I think I will just park this thing and look for a US made tiller, I paid too much for this thing in the first place ($600) so fixing it would be throwing good money after bad.

The Frontier 647 at the JD candy store looked very nice.

Maybe they will take the Iseki in on trade, Ha Ha!!!!!!!

Thanks for the reply's.

Ductape · Apr 14, 2011

Maybe not an error. Can you reverse the lower pins on the tiller to face inward? Buying a PTO shaft (or having yours lengthened) would be cheaper than bailing out on it. There are certainly plenty of members here who are using japanese tillers. Where are you located? Maybe there is another TBN member nearby who could help out with a little welding to make it fit your tractor better??

JD-2320_1 · Apr 14, 2011

Hi Ductape,

Maybe your right and I shouldn't bail on the tiller yet.

I live in British Columbia Canada on Vancouver Island.

Although I am a fish habitat consultant now my trade for years was steel fabrication. I have a fully equipped shop but don't really have the time.

As soon as the weather improves I will take some photos of the tiller and post them.

Cheers

Kernopelli · Apr 14, 2011

This is the basic set up that has come with every rice tiller I've had. A short slip splined shaft w/ u- joints. This is an original Iseki drive shaft with a PTO overrun clutch/extension to allow it reach on my tractor. I have a shorter pair of lift arm that allows the pto to hook up w/o the pto extension but the tiller hits the tires with that set up. I have used the tiller this way for years with no problems.

AS far as the top link, the tiller should have come with a special short unit. You can make your own though. I have a top link I cut an rewelded and use it with the tiller sometimes. You could simply make one out of a piece of pipe w/ flattened ends and holes drilled/torched in....might just have to get creative.

As far as the tiller pins being too narrow. Can you take your sway bars loose from the lift arms and hook up to the tiller then? If so, just make a set of chains to use as sway bars when using the tiller....this is what I had to do with my current lift arms. If that doesn't work, a variety of lift arms are available at our local farm supply stores and are pretty reasonably priced.

These tillers are not made for tilling very rocky or super compacted soils but they will work great as long as you use a little caution. If the ground has never been broke, run your box blade scarifiers, disc, plow or something though it first it just to loosen it up. The next year you should be fine. I do occasionally break tines and fortunately have extras. Some day I'll do what bjr did but these tillers can and will work fine as they are....you just have to be a little careful with them.