Iseki TX1510 hydraulic suction filter/o ring replacement

ballaterach · Mar 20, 2017

Hi everyone anyone out there with an Iseki or Bolens ever replaced the Hydraulic suction filter and o rings? Is it straightforward and any tips would be greatly appreciated

Ilikeurtractor · Mar 20, 2017

If the TX1510 is like a TX1500 there is a screen that is able to be cleaned so you won't have to replace it unless somehow it was damaged. I don't think I've ever had to change the o-rings, just reuse them if they look ok. I would recommend running a extendable magnet in the screen hole to pick up any free magnetic metal chunks. Normally they don't cause a problem but you might as well clean it up as good as you can while it's empty and apart.

ballaterach · Mar 20, 2017

Thank you. It's just there's a new 'leak' which is obviously coming from that area so I was planning on changing the O rings and just wondered if it was straightforward i.e do I just need to undo the bolt and maybe the pipe clamp to be able to move it about a bit...or maybe the bolt just needs tightening!!

Ilikeurtractor · Mar 20, 2017

Unless it's really loose, O-rings that aren't damaged or the wrong size aren't susceptible to leaking so you'll probably need to replace it. Yes, what you said should work.

fxrs55 · Mar 20, 2017

Just to be clear, You do know you'll have to drain
the Transmission oil first. If you don't it will come
out the filter opening as soon as you remove
the banjo bolt. You will also need need new
transmission oil.

ballaterach · Mar 21, 2017

Thank you very much for your reply sadly whilst I'm not stupid I'm not overly mechanically minded but trying to save some pennies by doing things myself. Just started leaking for some reason..for those of you who might be interested I have a TX1510 but due to the casing where the PTO shaft comes out getting damaged I had to have a 2160 back end put on which works fine the only downside is that the wheels on the 1510 could be changed round to increase or decrease the distance between them but the 2160 wheels are bolted on - wonder if they could be reversed though it would just mean as with the 1510 that the air valves were on the inside - any thoughts welcomed!!

Ilikeurtractor · Mar 21, 2017

I'm not certain, but if I understand you correctly you had the bolt on hubs that are pinned to the output shafts which are what the TX1300 and 1500 have. If you remove the hubs the wheels should bolt to the 2160 transmission axles. You should be able to reverse them to get the fill valves on the outside while maintaining the proper tread rotation. In the US I haven't seen any TX1510 style tractors for some reason so I'm not familiar with their configuration. From what I can gather they use the K3 engines which would explain why the 2160 transmission fits yours. I do not believe you can mix and match transmissions/engines between the 2- and 3-cylinder tractors although I haven't really investigated that option. There would definitely be a length issue to address though at a minimum.

ballaterach · Mar 21, 2017

Many thanks for your reply I will give the rear wheels a try shortly but yes you are right the old 1510 wheels used a pin to secure them to the output shafts and I did switch them to get as wide a track as possible for stability

fxrs55 · Mar 21, 2017

I wasn't implying you were stupid, just some friendly advise.
Do you still the old transmission? you may be able to
unbolt the axle housings from the tx1510 and bolt
the whole axle assembly onto the 2160 transmission.
Here a few pictures from when I had my TX1300f
apart for many repairs.

ballaterach · Mar 22, 2017

Hi sorry my English/Grammar was unforgivably poor I didn't think for a moment you were implying I was stupid I was just stating the fact LOL!!! Much appreciate as ever your kind help. Sadly few and far between in the UK it seems. Really excellent photographs by the way which are very helpful will probably look at the possibility of doing this shortly thank you so much again